Review: The Warren Hobbit House, Loch Tay - cosy comfort in style - Scotland on Sunday Travel

We stayed in a hole in the ground. Not a nasty, dirty, wet hole, filled with the ends of worms and an oozy smell, nor yet a dry, bare, sandy hole with nothing in it to sit down on or to eat: it was a hobbit-hole, and that means comfort.

Across a quaint wooden footbridge and up from the shore of Loch Tay is The Warren, an earthen home nestled into a hillock at Craggantoul. Outside, on a snaking patio, is a hot tub with a secluded view of the glen. And inside, beyond the circular door and porthole windows, we find a well-appointed self-catering ‘cottage’ with space for four.

We arrived at The Warren on a winter’s evening. It was dark when we pulled off the A827 and frost crunched beneath our feet as we unpacked the car. The warmth and comfort of the cosy cave house we discovered over that little bridge could not have been more welcome.

Budget or Boutique

The Hobbit House, Aberfeldy, Loch Tay has access to 40 acres of ancient woodland. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore PhotographyThe Hobbit House, Aberfeldy, Loch Tay has access to 40 acres of ancient woodland. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore Photography
The Hobbit House, Aberfeldy, Loch Tay has access to 40 acres of ancient woodland. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore Photography
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The Warren is unquestionably boutique - from the fixtures and fittings to the price and that glorious hot tub patio, this is a holiday home steeped in luxury.

Room service

The large circular door opens into the largest space of The Warren, the modern and open kitchen, dining and living room. Twin doors in the back wall lead through to matching bedrooms with matching and rather grand en-suite facilities. The beds are fitted with Egyptian cotton and topped with Swiss chocolates to give the Warren a boutique feel and both rooms have a TV (including streaming access). Ours even has a copy of The Hobbit. Because, of course.

Worth getting out of bed for

The Hobbit House's modern and open kitchen, dining and living room. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore PhotographyThe Hobbit House's modern and open kitchen, dining and living room. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore Photography
The Hobbit House's modern and open kitchen, dining and living room. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore Photography

There’s little a holidaymaker in Scotland could want that can’t be found around Loch Tay. Hillwalking in Ben Lawers nature reserve, fishing on the loch itself, a round at Killin golf course and a whole raft of adventure sports are all available right on the doorstep. Hidden in neighbouring Glen Lyon is one of Scotland’s most remarkable spots - the churchyard in the wee village of Fortingall which is home to a 5,000-year-old yew, possibly Britain’s oldest tree and certainly one of the oldest living things in all of Europe. We step into the quiet churchyard as another covering of snow fell on the headstones and the crooked wall which preserves the tree - growing since before the pyramids were built - and it is mesmerising.

Further afield, though not by much, Aberfeldy is worthy of a stroll and peruse of bookshops old and new (try Oakholm Books as well as the wonderful Watermill bookshop and cafe).

Wining and Dining

One of the matching bedrooms. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore PhotographyOne of the matching bedrooms. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore Photography
One of the matching bedrooms. Pic: Archie McLaren, Kenmore Photography

For lunch, the Watermill is a 30-minute drive from The Warren and a perfect pitstop. Likewise Aran Bakery in Dunkeld, run by former Great British Bake Off star and cookbook author Flora Shedden, is a must-visit (in the mornings, their bacon roll with rhubarb ketchup should not be missed). At the other end of the loch, Killin has a host of pubs and hotels. But the best place to wine and dine while staying at The Warren is right there in the earth house itself. The kitchen has everything for a luxurious home-cooked meal, the dining table is the heart of the house. We were there a few weeks too early, but thought it would be an idyllic place to enjoy a Christmas dinner or celebrate Hogmanay is peace.

Little Extras

With a hot tub under the stars, access to 40 acres of ancient woodland as well as a contemporary TV and Bluetooth speaker set up, this is a house for all weathers.

Guestbook Comments

This is a hobbit-hole right in the heart of Scotland, and that means cosy comfort in style.

The Warren from £265 per night. Craggantoul, Aberfeldy PH15 2PB. https://lochtay.com/properties/the-warren

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