Wine: Made in Bordeaux

Two of Bordeaux's most prominent chateau owners were in Edinburgh recently to put claret back in the spotlight.

From the "left bank" of Bordeaux was Patrick Maroteaux, owner of Chteau Branaire Ducru in the popular St Julien appellation – and from the "right bank" was Comte Stephan von Neipperg, owner of Chteau Canon La Gaffeliere in St Emilion.

The timing of their visit was opportune. This month UK wine-merchants will head to Bordeaux to taste the new 2009 vintage in barrel, which by all accounts is "one of the finest vintages chateau owners have ever seen".

As such, 2009 will be in big demand, with a price to match, in Asia where people with money drink nothing else.

So if we cannot afford 2009, what should we choose instead? Maroteaux and von Neipperg were keen to show the "forgotten" vintages, including those from 2008, 2007, 2004 and 2003.

It was a fascinating study of contrasting styles in Bordeaux. With its 52 hectares, Chteau Branaire Ducru is a typical Medoc property in size, where no expense has been spared in upping quality by reducing yields and focusing on freshness and ripeness. In contrast, von Neipperg's Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere is just under 20 hectares.

Chteau Branaire Ducru's cabernet sauvignon-dominant clarets from the gravel banks of St Julien on the "left bank" of the Gironde estuary were restrained, elegant and subtle, needing time to develop. The 2008 vintage was tight knit but with a floral elegance, whilst lighter 2007 was more generous and open.

Most impressive of von Neipperg's wines was the svelte velvet smooth Canon La Gaffeliere 2008 and for those who like turbo-charged merlot, the spicy super-cuve La Mondotte 2008. Sadly neither are cheap, so for those on a budget, I have two more affordable choices.

Rose Murray Brown MW escorts wine tours abroad. Her next tours will be to Rioja, Bordeaux, Australia and Loire, [email protected]

Affordable Bordeaux

20-25

Justerini & Brooks, Edinburgh, www.justerinis.com; Fine & Rare Wines, www.frw.com

Duluc de Branaire Ducru 2004

An enchanting soft textured cabernet sauvignon-dominant claret; the second label from the great chteau – this is forward, soft and very attractive.

Bibendum Wines, www.bibendum-wine.co.uk

Chteau L'Aiguilhe 2004

An impressive sleek merlot- dominant claret from up-and- coming Ctes de Castillon; sweet cassis and plum notes, smoky elegant and affordable.

This article was first published in the Scotsman, March 6, 2010