Great chieftain o' the thrifty race

SMALL, round and encased in the lining of a sheep's stomach it may be, but it seems that haggis is fast becoming a staple part of the British diet in these belt-tightening times, and not just because it's low on the calorie count.

While households are cutting back on life's little luxuries, squeamishness has apparently been thrown out with the acacia berries and the humble haggis is finally taking its place as chieftain of the kitchen cupboard.

Sales are sky-rocketing thanks to the cold weather and a trend towards eating cheaper cuts of meat. No longer is it dished up twice yearly just to celebrate Robert Burns or St Andrew, or deep-fried and served with chips. Apparently it is now being bought as a stomach-filling, protein and carbohydrate-rich dinner.

Indeed, since the near collapse of the banks, the stock of haggis has been on the rise. Sales in 2007 stood at 6.387 million, rising to 7.112m in 2008 and 8.778m in 2009. This year looks likely to be even better.

According to supermarket bosses at Sainsbury's, which stocks the Edinburgh-based Macsween haggis, sales have soared by 168 per cent in the last month since temperatures dropped, but demand has increased all year.

While consumer demand for cheaper and nutritious cuts of meat has seen such delicacies as pigs' trotters and ox cheeks back on butcher counters, Steve Wallace, Sainsbury's Scottish buyer, says people are also learning to love offal like haggis.

"We've seen a surge in sales of cheaper cuts of meat over the past few months. Haggis sales, for example, have been rising steadily and we expect sales to rise further. It is versatile and a great source of protein, whilst providing a warming dish. We suspect its popularity right now is due to the temperature snap."

James Macsween, director of Macsween of Edinburgh, agrees, but believes there's more to the health of haggis.

"Yes, it's darker and colder and people are looking for comfort food, but I do think it is becoming an eating experience that happens all year round. When you think about value for money, haggis with turnip and potatoes is a very cost-effective dish. You can feed a family for under 5 which is great when people are looking to make their pounds go that bit further.

"We also introduced a one-minute microwaveable pack, with two slices of haggis, which proved extremely popular. It's faster to make than toast which has attracted those looking for convenient, tasty food.That product has attracted 75,000 new haggis customers - people who had never bought haggis before.

"The growth in sales also means we've had to invest in new equipment in our Loanhead base to keep up with demand."

From Loanhead to Portobello and the award-winning Finlay's butcher, where haggis comes in a variety of forms. "We've seen sales increase dramatically over the last few years, especially down south and online," explains Joe Finlay. "When you introduce a new product, like our gluten-free haggis or our Asian haggis, and it starts to take off, you realise there's a real appetite for haggis.

"Without a doubt it has become a very popular dish, but I think a lot of that is because it's quite cheap.

"Restaurants are also very keen on it as they can use it in different ways. The Witchery stocks our haggis as a starter and it's apparently very popular.

"If people are looking for something to fill them up and warm their cockles, you can't do better than haggis."