Beauty: Create a moody grunge image with dirty-looking eyes to join 90s revival

THE Capital's high street gives it away. Peruse the rails and in among the florals, pastels and sheer fabrics lies fashion's antithesis in the form of hard-edged leather, denim, studs swathed in lots of attitude. Now it seems the 90s gritty and moody grunge look, which is making a comeback in New York and London, is hitting our make-up bags too.

It's time to get tough. Kohl-rimmed eyes, dark metallic lips, rusty eyeliner, brushed up brows and even nude lips paired with dirty-looking eyes which give that Courtney Love circa 1990 rocker look. Add in the bed head, dark chipped talons and you have it nailed.

First up are the eyes. Dark stares burst with attitude and sex appeal, and can be worn day or night. Start with an eye primer to help the colour stay, and follow with a wash of black, grey or brown matt colour.

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Layer the colour and intensify towards the lash line. Alternatively, use a soft eye pencil, drawing the colour along the lash line and blending upwards using a brow smudge brush. To add definition, line eyes underneath with a black kohl liner and use a liquid liner on the top lashes. High impact lashes are a vital part of the look, and two coats are better than one.

Try Estee Lauder's Sumptuous (18) for bold volume, Lash XL (18) for maximum length lashes and More Than Mascara (18) for added definition. No 17's Va Va Voom (5.99), Benefit's BADgal mascara (14.50) and Bourjois Liner Effect mascara (8.99) are all top definers.

During London Fashion Week, brows were brushed upwards in a bold statement, making the eyes the focal point of the made-up look. Use a powdery pencil to add colour and fill in any sparse areas, followed by clear mascara brushed upwards. Or, use a brow brush and spray with hairspray for the same effect. When it comes to brow colour, they don't come much better than Bobbi Brown's newly formulated Brow Pencils (13).

Keep skin natural looking with a matte foundation, and skip the fake tan. Gently sculpt cheeks with a subtle matte peach cheek colour, and pair with nude lips courtesy of concealer and gloss. Or go for bold with dark stained pouts. Appli-cation of your chosen lip colour is key here so use a square-headed lip brush and, after applying one layer, take a tissue, separate the plys and apply one thin ply to the lips to blot the colour. Dust loose powder over the tissue, remove from the lips and re-apply. Do this three times for long-lasting lip colour.

Try Bobbi Brown's Creamy Lip Colour (14.50) in dark chocolate or Lip Colour (15.50) in blackberry or rich cocoa; or Estee Lauder's Double Wear Stay in Burgundy or Brown (16), which give a smooth and creamy colour that lasts all evening – even with lots of drinking. Rimmel, Clinique and Revlon do similar versions.

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