But democracy may not look much different from the status quo. Military strongman Voreqe Bainimarama – who has ruled the South Pacific island nation since he seized control in a 2006 coup – is the front-runner.
He is popular in Fiji due in part to his focus on social programmes, increased infrastructure spending and a crackdown on the media. After casting his ballot, Mr Bainimarama was asked whether he would accept the outcome if he lost. “I’m not going to lose. I will win. You ask that question to the other party,” he said. Then he added: “Of course we will accept the election results. That is what the democratic process is all about.”
The 100 or so international election observers reported no problems by the time polling closed at 6pm yesterday evening. In the morning, voters lined up at polling stations, with just over half a million of the nation’s 900,000 citizens registered to vote.
The international community is prepared to drop remaining sanctions once Fiji officially restores democracy, including returning it to full membership among the Commonwealth.
Moti Ram, 73, arrived at a Suva polling station early with his whole family. “We wanted our votes to count,” he said.
Abele Tubaba, from the village of Koronatoga, said he hoped whoever wins will improve development in remote areas. “We struggle to find markets for our root crops, grog and seafood,” he added, referring to a potent traditional Fijian drink. “We hope the new government brings better things for us.” Polls indicate Mr Bainimarama’s Fiji First party will comfortably win the most votes.
Supporters say this reflects a job well done, while detractors say he is seeking to legitimise his treasonous power grab and years of human rights abuses. His nearest rival, Ro Teimumu Kepa, leader of the Sodelpa Party, said she and her candidates have done the best job they could. “We leave it to the people to decide,” she added.
Mr Bainimarama has won favour with many Fijians by improving services.
He has made education free and spent tens of millions of dollars improving the roads, albeit much of it with money borrowed from China.
And the economy is showing signs of life, growing by 4.6 per cent last year, according to government figures.
Some see his biggest achievement as reducing ethnic tensions, which have been a big factor in the four coups Fiji has endured since 1987.
An indigenous Fijian, Mr Bainimarama is paradoxically most popular with the large minority whose ancestors come from India.
That is because he has ended preferential indigenous representation in the parliament and abolished the Great Council of Chiefs, a group of powerful indigenous Fijians who enjoyed a privileged status in island life.
Human rights groups say Mr Bainimarama has tortured prisoners and repressed opponents.
They say he has carefully cultivated his own image by controlling the nation’s media, and has looked after his own interests by meddling with the constitution, ensuring he and other coup leaders are immune from prosecution.
“We believe in democracy. They came in through treason. That’s a major difference between us,” said Ms Kepa, herself a highly ranked indigenous chief. “They’re telling the population they believe that all the citizenry are equal, yet they’re giving themselves immunity. Where’s the equality in that?”