Walk of the week: Farland Point, Isle of Cumbrae

There is something about catching a ferry that can turn a day out into a "proper" trip. And travelling to an island increases the feeling of getting properly away from it all (whatever 'it all' may be).

The Isle of Cumbrae, off the north Ayrshire coast, has been a tourist destination for years, ever since people started going "doon the watter". Okay, it's not as dramatic as Skye, as isolated as St Kilda or as full of whisky as Islay, but Cumbrae is a perfect place to head for a day away. Once on the CalMac ferry at Largs, you will start to relax as you set out across the water on the ten-minute trip.

It may all be in the mind, but when you arrive, the pace of island life hits you, if only because of the number of cyclists (many of them families) taking advantage of the flat, quiet roads with superb sea views.

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There is a good leaflet of walks on the island, which can be picked up at Garrison House, in Millport, the the island's only town, or it can be downloaded from the website www.ayrshirepaths.org.uk.

This route of this walk starts at the old pier in Millport, where you leave behind a flotilla of small craft as you make your way along a promenade lined with palm trees. At the end of the sandy beach, you meet a large rock painted to look like a crocodile (albeit one wearing lipstick). Over the years this has become a constant feature of the town and a popular place for pictures, although I was unable to find anyone who could tell me why it is painted like it is.

In the middle of the bay are the rocky outcrops of the Eileans and beyond is Little Cumbrae, which is currently being turned into an international yoga camp. Last month it was blessed by Indian guru Baba Ramdev, who is also known as Swami Ji.

As you get further round the bay and reach a second beach, the mountains of Arran come into view before you reach the path to Farland Point. The view from here is a little ruined by the Hunterston power station, on the mainland, but you can look the other way, over Millport, to see the southern tip of Bute in front of Arran. As you continue round the point, the hills of north Ayrshire can also be seen.

The return sees you heading back to the promenade and the end of an easy yet enjoyable stroll that is perfect for all the family. Boots aren't needed as the route is on pavement, beach and well-built paths. Pushchairs, prams and wheelchairs can also cover the whole route. Just don't forget your camera.

DISTANCE 3 miles. HEIGHT CLIMBED None. TIME 1-2 hours. MAP OS Landranger 63. PARKING Take the ferry – see www.calmac.co.uk for details – then drive south to Millport and park on the promenade at the western end of the town.

IN SUMMARY Follow the promenade around Millport Bay with the town to your left. When you have gone right around, go right at a bus stop, through a wooden kissing gate and on to a path. This leads to Farland Point, then continues round and back to a road, where you go left to return to the promenade and then the starting point.

REFRESHMENTS Try the Garrison House caf, on the promenade. It also has a museum.

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WHILE YOU ARE IN THE AREA From the Glaid Stone at the island's highest point, you get stunning views of the sea lochs of Argyll, over to Bute, Arran, Jura and Little Cumbrae. To get there, drive out of Millport past the cathedral and then turn left, following a sign up a rough, minor road for about a mile to a car park on the left.

The island is completely geared up for cycling, with a number of places to hire bikes in Millport and a flat road going the 101/2 miles round the perimeter, making for a perfect afternoon.

The Cathedral of the Isles (01475 530353, www.argyllandtheisles.org.uk) is Britain's smallest cathedral and dates from 1851, while the Robertson Museum and Aquarium (01475 530581, www.gla.ac.uk/centres/marinestation) at the University Marine Biological Station (go right along the road after Farland Point) explains the research work that goes on in the waters around Cumbrae and also features a reconstruction of part of 'the Arc', the first research station to be situated on the island, in 1895.

This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday on 25 October 2009

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