Recipe: Braised oxtail with winter vegetables

THERE is nothing like a good stew to warm you from the inside out, and my preference is for rich and succulent oxtail.

This mouthwatering meat is often classed as offal, but it is really just another cut of beef, a bit like shin or hough. It has to be cooked slowly and for a long time for it to become meltingly soft, sweet, rich, and falling off the bone, though.

I'm glad to see that some supermarkets are now stocking packs of fresh, skinned oxtail at ridiculously low prices – they are a really good buy at this time of year. However, you are more likely to have to order it from your butcher.

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Bone marrow used to be given to invalids to aid recovery, as it was not only easy to eat, but delicious as well. The cooking process will release the marrow into the rich liquor in the pan, enriching it with natural goodness. Some chefs bone and stuff oxtail, but for me it should be cooked on the bone for maximum flavour. That way you will be left with the tasty bones to suck on at the end of the meal.

The thin layer of firm, white fat that encases the oxtail pieces protects the meat while you brown it, melting and helping its juices to caramelise in the pan, so don't trim it off unless you really are counting calories.

Once the meat is browned, the vegetables can then be thrown into the residual fat, building up even more flavour in the pan, which you will see as little patches of brown sticking to the base and sides. To release this flavour, deglaze the pan with some liquid – preferably red wine. Deglazing does exactly as it says – the liquid washes the caramelised meat and vegetable juices from the pan and into the braise. The wine is then boiled to evaporate the raw alcohol, leaving the deep, rich wine flavour behind.

More liquid is needed to keep the meat moist while it cooks, so a good, rich stock will come into its own here (or a decent stock cube), mixed with tomato passata.

The choice of herbs is crucial – bay leaves are a must, coupled with sweet and earthy thyme or even rosemary (these are proper winter herbs and are perfect with oxtail). The oxtail pieces are braised on a bed of the vegetables, herbs and liquid for a good, long time. When it's cooked, I lift out the meat and drain the sauce into a clean pan, pressing some of the juices from the vegetables that have done all they can for the sauce. Boil the sauce to reduce it until thickened and syrupy, then to finish the dish, stir in some nicely diced mixed root vegetables. These should have been steamed until they are sweet and just firm.

My favourite way to serve this dish is with winter cabbage or kale – the perfect foil for the rich, succulent meat and sauce. Some mash wouldn't go amiss either.

Braised oxtail with winter vegetables

Serves six

1 tbsp sunflower oil

2kg oxtail pieces on the bone (varying sizes)

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 large onion, chopped

3 celery sticks, chopped

250ml red wine

1 litre beef stock (a good stock cube will do)

200ml tomato passata

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 large sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

For the garnish:

150g mixed, finely diced carrot/swede/ turnip/celeriac

chopped parsley, to serve

Preheat the oven to 150C/300F/gas mark 2. Heat the oil in a hot frying pan and fry the oxtail pieces in batches until brown on all sides. Lift the oxtail into a slow cooker or casserole dish, and tip off the excess oil or fat from the pan. Now add the vegetables to the frying pan and brown them evenly all over.

Deglaze the frying pan with the red wine, using a heat-proof spatula or wooden spoon to loosen the sediment from the bottom. Add half the stock, the passata, garlic, thyme and bay leaf and bring to the boil. Pour this over the oxtail then add the remaining stock. Season well.

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Cover with a sheet of greaseproof paper or baking parchment, sitting it well down on top of the meat, then cover with the lid and cook in the oven for about two and a half hours. Once ready, take the dish out of the oven and lift the oxtail from the casserole on to a plate.

Strain the juices through a fine strainer, lightly pressing the vegetables to release their liquid, then let it settle. Skim off any fat on the sauce. Return the juices to the pan with the almost cooked meat. Bring back to the boil and return to the oven for another hour or so. At this point check the meat, which should almost be falling from the bone and surrounded by a rich sauce (you can pour off the sauce and boil to reduce it further; remember also to check the seasoning). Meanwhile, boil or steam the vegetable garnish, then add to the sauce. Serve in warm bowls with the sauce spooned around, scattered with chopped parsley and buttered cabbage or kale.

Critical points:

Make sure the pieces of oxtail and vegetables are browned all over before braising. When deglazing with the wine, boil to evaporate completely before adding the stock. Cover the meat directly with greaseproof paper before putting the lid on. This will catch the steam as it rises, turning it back into liquid to keep the meat moist.

• This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, January 17, 2010

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