The end of an era for Scottish restaurants

THE passing of Ronnie Clydesdale, the Glasgow restaurateur who founded the Ubiquitous Chip almost 40 years ago, marks the end of an era for food and fine dining in Scotland.

Before the Chip, there was very little in Glasgow by way of quality dining experiences – outside the hotels the acme of culinary excellence pre-1971 was prawn cocktail and steak at a Berni Inn – and his championing of the best Scottish produce in a relaxed, unstuffy atmosphere set the example for others to follow. The combination of the airy courtyard, dining room and the bars made it a focal point for the West End, perfectly suiting the media types and academics who lived nearby. That it continues to thrive is a tribute not only to the West End's lasting appeal, but to Clydesdale's sharp eye for enduring quality and the market.

But while top quality restaurants have multiplied in Edinburgh, Glasgow has not proved to be such fertile territory for the best in Scottish cooking, with the possible exception of Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or. Even Gordon Ramsay's Amaryllis just along the Great Western Road proved to be a failure.

As renowned chef Albert Roux told The Scotsman last week, it is strange that a city of its size does not boast a single Michelin-starred restaurant. What a fitting tribute it would be if a new generation of restaurateurs could put Glasgow firmly on the culinary map.