However, on leaving the next morning, Catriona suggests she headed along the edge of Loch Skeen on her way to the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall.
I don’t think this would be the case as Loch Skeen is about 800ft above the Grey Mare’s Tail car park, about a mile to the north-west into the hills. Loch Skeen can be reached by following the path to the right of the Tail Burn, which flows from Loch Skeen, and of which the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall is part.
As the Tibbie Shiels Inn is situated between St Mary’s Loch to the north and the Loch of the Lowes to the south, I suggest Catriona drove by the latter when she left Tibbie Shiels and headed to Moffat.
I do concur with Catriona that Moffat’s Café Ariete is well worth a stop after a walk, as its excellent baking is just as good as its knickerbocker glories.