Ate to Z of Scotland

So, when gathering the ingredients in order to whip up your Nick Nairn recipes, make sure you don't neglect your local shops. Bear in mind that, in the best restaurants abroad, our produce is highly coveted. For example, approximately a tonne of live Skye langoustines are flown to New York every month.

So, let's hope that, with the rest of the world cottoning on to our credentials, we'll soon throw off that deep-fried Mars bar albatross. Although it's difficult to condense the best of ingredients, shops, restaurants and recipes into an Eat Scottish A-Z, we're going to give it a damn good try ...

Arbroath smokies (www.arbroath-smokies.com). Iain R Spink, fifth generation fish-smoker, producer and ambassador says: "I think what sets my Arbroath Smokies apart is their unique freshness. I only ever sell smokies that have been made on the spot, on that day. The best way to eat one is undoubtedly straight from the barrel, when they are hot and juicy. This is one of the reasons I started up my mobile business, to allow me to make fresh smokies anywhere. The next best way to eat them is to open one up, take out the bones, dot with a few knobs of butter, and heat gently (remember, it's cooked already) under a medium pre-heated grill for two or three minutes."

In 2004, the smokie earned Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, granted by the European Commission. The name Arbroath smokie can now only be used to describe haddock smoked in the traditional manner within an 8km radius of Arbroath.

Other As include... Michelin-starred restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles (0800 389 3737, www.gleneagles.com) and Anstruther Fish Bar (01333 310 518, www.anstrutherfish-bar.co.uk), arguably the place to go for Scotland's best fish supper.

Beef. "Scottish beef is the best in the world," according to Tony Borthwick, head chef of the Plumed Horse (0131-554 5556, www.plumedhorse.co.uk) restaurant in the capital.

Other Bs include... Bannock. Berries. Black pudding. Ballachulish House in Argyll (01855 811266, www.ballachulishhouse.com) – go there for excellent food and vintage wine, or visit Balbirnie House in Fife (01592 610066, www.balbirnie.co.uk) for dinner at the Orangery.

Cheddar. "Isle of Mull Cheddar (www.isleofmullcheese.co.uk) is my favourite cheese of all time," says Fi Buchanan of Heart Buchanan deli in Glasgow (0141-334 7626, www.heartbuchanan.co.uk). "The Reid family, who make it in lush, wet, grassy Mull, are proper food heroes."

Other Cs include... Crombie's in Edinburgh (0131-557 0111). Anyone who knows their bangers says this butcher makes the very best; it has more than 100 varieties of sausage on rotation and the venison and red wine recipe comes highly recommended by us. Crowdie. A traditional crumbly soft cheese, it's best spread on oatcakes and is traditionally eaten before boozing at a ceilidh. Artisan chocolate shops, including Plaisir du Chocolat in Edinburgh (01835 823509, www.plaisirduchocolat.com). Clootie dumplings. The Champany Inn, Linlithgow, for the best steaks (01506 834532, www.champany.com).

David Bann in Edinburgh (0131-556 5888, www.davidbann.com). Scottish vegetarians rejoiced when this top-class restaurant opened back in 1993.

Ecclefechan Tarts. These traditional tarts take their name from the quiet Borders town, best known as the birthplace of Victorian essayist Thomas Carlyle. They were once a popular choice in bakeries throughout the country, but the recipe had all but disappeared until Walkers (www.walkersshortbread.com) revived them at the end of last year.

Fish suppers. "I've had especially good fish and chips at the Wee Hurrie chipper down beside the fishing boats in Troon. It's tiny but you can grab a stool and read the papers while you eat, or peer out through the steamy windows at the trawlers," says Fi Buchanan.

Other Fs include... Finnan haddie. Named after the fishing village of Findon, near Aberdeen, finnan haddie is partially boned, lightly salted, smoked haddock which was originally smoked over peat fires. A favourite breakfast dish, it's available whole or in fillets and is best baked, broiled or poached. Farmers' markets (for the best see www.scottishfarmers-markets.com). Farm shops. "I grew up on the farm next door and often visit Loch Leven Larder Farm Shop (01592 841000, www.lochlevenslarder.com) for a bite to eat," says Tom Kitchin, head chef and owner of Michelin-starred Edinburgh restaurant The Kitchin. "The surroundings are beautiful and they've done a great job with the shop. Somehow my wife always finds something to buy in there."

Garlic. We've got a taste for it, which we can thank the Auld Alliance for. So, why not pick your own? "We're just starting to go out into the woods to collect wild garlic, which is magic in everything from omelettes to sea bass," says Buchanan. Or try products from the Really Garlicky Company (www.reallygarlicky.co.uk), a Nairn-based success story selling a range of top-quality "porcelain garlic" products (including a delicious garlic and horseradish mashed potato seasoning, 2.99).

Other Gs include... Grouse. "The first grouse of the year, after the Glorious 12th, is my favourite ingredient," says Kitchin. "This is such a unique game bird to Scotland and is the envy of the culinary world."

Haggis. Macsweens haggis (www. macsween.co.uk) is the most popular and, many would argue, the best. Its vegetarian haggis is also superb, accounting for 10 per cent of all its sales.

I J Mellis Cheesemonger (0131-661 9955, www.ijmellischeesemonger.com) in Edinburgh. "The owner of this shop, Iain Mellis, has become legendary, with his exceptional products appearing on restaurant menus throughout Scotland," says Roy Brett, head chef of Dakota Forth Bridge (0870 423 4293, www.dakotaforthbridge.co.uk), Scottish Restaurant of the Year 2008. "The extensive range of cheeses available is sourced from all over the British Isles, Ireland and Europe. They also offer a range of carefully selected oatcakes, olives, chutneys, pickles, beautiful Ortiz Spanish tinned fish products and a fine range of breads including the world-famous Poilane sourdough from Paris."

Jeely (or jam, if you're posh). Spread some Ginger Conserve with Gooseberries (4.95) from www.claire-macdonald.com on your piece (breid).

The Kitchin (0131-555 1755, www.thekitchin.com). Awarded one Michelin star back in January last year, 30-year-old Tom Kitchin, based in Leith, is the youngest Scottish chef proprietor to have received one.

Langoustines. Mary Contini, owner of Valvona & Crolla in Edinburgh (0131-556 6066, www.valvonacrolla.co.uk), says: "My favourite Scottish ingredient is Port Seton-landed Scottish langoustines from James Dickson & Son (01875 811301). When we were younger and lived upstairs from our dad's fish and chip shop we used to deep- fry the langoustines that had just come from the sea – they were scampi to die for. Thankfully the boats at Port Seton are landing more and more of these wonderful shellfish."

"I love sitting in the west coast of Scotland on a sunny day eating roasted langoustines," agrees Kitchin. "They should be fresh out of the sea, drizzled with garlic butter and drunk with a nice glass of Riesling."

Other Ls... Local shops. "Edinburgh is not unique in Scotland in that it still retains a lot of independent fishmongers, butchers and fruiterers," says Borthwick. "The big supermarkets have their place but you can't beat a small, independent, specialist shop. Castle Douglas in Dumfries and Galloway is a case in point. Everyone was worrying about the arrival of Tesco a few years ago, but I think the store has had little impact on a town that already had a wealth of quality shops. People who buy good produce from good shops will always continue to do so."

Loch Fyne Oysters (01499 600264, www.lochfyne.com), which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. The Lobster Store (01333 450476) in Crail, which sells fresh lobster and crab, cooked while you wait.

Mussels. "I love Scottish mussels smoked under pine needles on the beach," says Buchanan. "I eat them with sourdough bread, Scottish salted butter and a bottle of cold white wine. It's a very serious treat."

Other Ms include... Mushrooms (let your "sauted Chanterelles with courgettes and bacon" Nick Nairn recipe card inspire you). "I always start to feel a serious spark of excitement when we get our first wild Chanterelle," Buchanan says. "It seems like magic that I can just go walking and come back with them." Martin Wishart (0131-553 3557, www.martin-wishart.co.uk), Michelin-starred eatery in the capital. Manna House bakery (0131-652 2349, www.manna-house-edinburgh.co.uk) – the place for artisan bread and cakes. Macaroons. Mackie's ice-cream (www.mackies.co.uk). Marmalade from Dundee – its traditional home.

Nick Nairn Cook School (01877 389900, www.nicknairncookschool.com). Learn to cook in the Trossachs.

Oats. "As well as being a great source of slow-release energy and magnesium, which is calming, oats are so versatile. Porridge isn't boring if you add frozen berries, honey and pumpkin and sunflower seeds to the basic oats, water/milk mix or, on a cold day, cream, brown sugar and whisky," says Nell Nelson, food writer, presenter and nutritionist (www.nellnelsonnutrition.com). "Toss fish or chicken in pinhead oatmeal, then grill or shallow fry and you have a crisp coating. Or rub porridge oats with sugar and butter and you have a nutritious wheat-free topping."

Other Os... Oatcakes. Organic meat. Atholl Glens (01796 481482, www.athollglens.co.uk) – this producer of organic beef and lamb will be adding organic chicken to their repertoire very soon.

Pheasant. The most popular of all the game birds, they are shot locally in season and can be supplied fresh between 1 October and 31 January. Join an exclusive shooting party, hosted by chef Michel Roux, 4-7 December 2008 at Ardtall, a Georgian country estate in Ross-shire (1,650 per person, 0131-476 6500, www.georgegoldsmith.com).

Other Ps include... Partridge. Potatoes.

Quince. This old-fashioned fruit, which tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear, is becoming more popular as an accent to Scottish cheeses. It also goes well with game and fruit pies. Pick up a jar of quince jelly at Knowes Farm Shop (01620 860010, www.knowes.com) in East Linton.

Rothiemurchus Larder Shop (01479 812345, www.rothiemurchus.net), sells a range of interesting Scottish produce including rainbow trout from Cairngorm waters and a velvety "Forest" venison – highly recommended by Rick Stein.

Other Rs include... Rannoch Smokery. Sample its award-winning smoked meats and cheeses, including an unusual smoked goats cheese (01882 632344, www.rannochsmokery.co.uk).

Scallops. "My favourite Scottish ingredient has to be scallops," says Borthwick. "In fact, most of the fish we land in Scotland is fantastic. We have so much world-class produce here – that's why half of continental Europe go mad for it."

Other Ss include... Shetland lamb. Salmon. The Slow Food Movement, which has a burgeoning Scottish contingent (www.slowfood.org.uk). Seasonal produce (see VisitScotland's www.scottishfoodinseason.com for what's in and what's out).

Taste of Edinburgh festival. Sample fare from various top restaurants in the Meadows, 29 May-1 June 2008 (tickets from 12, see www.channel4.com).

Other Ts include ... The Three Chimneys on Skye (www.threechimneys.co.uk, 01470 511258) – head chef Michael Smith represented Scotland on BBC2's Great British Menu last month; well worth the pilgrimage to the north-west. Tattie scones. Tablet – sugar, butter, vanilla, milk > heaven.

Ubiquitous Chip (0141-334 5007, www.ubiquitous chip.co.uk). Opened in 1971 and still going strong, this eatery in Glasgow's West End always has the best of local Scottish ingredients on the menu.

Venison. "It's low in fat, cholesterol, carbon footprint and additives," says Nichola Fletcher, author of Ultimate Venison Cookery (Quiller Press, 18.95). "Also, it's high in iron, B12, omega 3, flavour and tenderness. What more could you want?"

Other Vs include ... Valvona & Crolla – Italian spirit on Edinburgh's Elm Row.

Whisky. "When selecting a whisky, a few important things to consider are: what's your usual tipple?; do you have a sweet tooth?; do you prefer white or red wine?; and have you drunk whisky before?" suggests Anne Griffiths, the venue director of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (0131-554 3451, www.smws.com). "The safe option is a lowland, with gentle, light citric notes and barely peaty. An aperitif whisky, cask number 25.44 (65) from our late spring bottling list would be another great starter. Or, a Speyside – wonderfully rounded, dry and fruity, with a hint of peat. The 63.20 (51) from our list would fit the bill perfectly."

X-rated. Expect a touch of titillating burlesque entertainment with your dinner, as 1940s inspired supper clubs enhance Scotland's eating scene. Enquire at The Voodoo Rooms (0131-556 7060, www.thevoodoo rooms.com).

Yellow split peas. An essential ingredient in Scotch broth.

Zeitgeist, culinary. Something that Scottish food is very much a part of.