The Pierhouse Hotel, Port Appin, Argyll, Do Not Disturb hotel review, Scotland on Sunday Travel

Superior Sea Views and locally sourced food in a stunning setting
By Patrick McPartlin
Published 27th Feb 2020, 12:14 BST
Updated 27th Feb 2020, 12:18 BST
The Pierhouse Hotel, Port Appin, sits on Loch Linnhe, with views of the islands of Lismore and Shuna. The food in the restaurant is sourced within 50 miles of the hotel, with lobsters from Loch Linnhe, oysters from Loch Creran and salmon from Loch FyneThe Pierhouse Hotel, Port Appin, sits on Loch Linnhe, with views of the islands of Lismore and Shuna. The food in the restaurant is sourced within 50 miles of the hotel, with lobsters from Loch Linnhe, oysters from Loch Creran and salmon from Loch Fyne
The Pierhouse Hotel, Port Appin, sits on Loch Linnhe, with views of the islands of Lismore and Shuna. The food in the restaurant is sourced within 50 miles of the hotel, with lobsters from Loch Linnhe, oysters from Loch Creran and salmon from Loch Fyne

Scotland’s west coast is becoming something of a second home to me thanks to family ties. But though the route there, across the spectacular Rannoch Moor and through the impressive Glen Coe past the hordes of Harry Potter fans at Glenfinnan, is becoming more and more familiar, the sight of a stag standing imperiously at the roadside with snow-capped mountains behind him – a real-life tourist postcard – still elicits a small gasp of wonder.

Yet for all my jaunts up and down the west coast, this is the first time I’ve ever made the trip to Port Appin despite passing fairly nearby on numerous occasions. It’s dry and bright as we head down the narrow road on the banks of Loch Linnhe and pull up outside the Pierhouse.

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There’s a fair nip in the air but it’s a beautiful setting. People make their way back up the pier from the recently-arrived Lismore ferry while day-trippers peer hopefully through the windows of the hotel as lunchtime ticks closer.

One of the 12 rooms, many of which have views across the loch to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, at The Pierhouse, Port AppinOne of the 12 rooms, many of which have views across the loch to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, at The Pierhouse, Port Appin
One of the 12 rooms, many of which have views across the loch to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, at The Pierhouse, Port Appin

Inside there’s a warm welcome from Rita at the bar, who greets us as though we’re old friends and provides us with warming coffees beside the log burner.

It’s not bad, as first impressions go.

Room service

We stay in a Superior Sea View room, looking across the loch to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, and offering a supremely comfortable bed, spacious bathroom and a lounge area – especially ideal when the storm clouds start pacing menacingly up and down the following morning across the bay.

With just 12 rooms, the Pierhouse feels more like a home from home than a hotel, and the bed ensures a wonderful night’s sleep - although the lack of light pollution and passing traffic may also contribute to a good rest.

Budget or boutique?

You’re into three figures for an overnight bed-and-breakfast stay but given the location, comfort, staff friendliness and the quality of the food, you could easily be asked to pay twice the going rate without any complaints.

Wining and dining

Recently appointed head chef Michael Leathley – the grandson of a River Tyne fisherman and with more than a decade’s experience in restaurants in London, Aberdeen and Glasgow – is behind the revamped menu.

He tells us everything is sourced within 50 miles and it’s not unusual to see him down at the water early doors, helping to haul in the hotel’s lobster creel in preparation for the day’s cooking.

Langoustines from Hughie Macleod, oysters from Loch Creran, Lochnell mud oysters, rope-grown mussels from Loch Leven, scallops and halibut are all on the à la carte menu while Inverawe smoked kippers and Loch Fyne smoked salmon are available at breakfast.

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A special mention for the sea buckthorn panna cotta with sea buckthorn sorbet, which sent me into raptures. I don’t think it would be an exaggeration to say it’s the best dessert I’ve ever had.

Worth getting out of bed for

Lismore is a short ferry ride across Loch Linnhe, and the nine-mile-long island is definitely worth a visit for walkers, cyclists and curious tourists.

The village of Port Ramsay on the isle’s west coast was built for limestone industry workers and is half an hour’s walk from the ferry terminal at Point. If you’re lucky you may see one or two inquisitive seals bobbing about.

Further down the island, Achnacroish is the largest settlement, home to the primary school, heritage centre and church, as well as the harbour for ferries to and from Oban, while Tirefour Castle – an Iron Age broch – is around three miles north of Achnacroish.

Little extras

The milk, provided by the Wee Isle Dairy on the island of Gigha, is a nice touch and tastes wonderful in tea, coffee and in the ice cream served at dinner.

Guest book comments

Think of times you’ve stayed with family and friends, add a dash of sea air and you’re close to capturing the welcome at the Pierhouse: friendly, attentive staff and delicious, locally-sourced food in a stunning setting. Who said staycations were overrated?

Rates start at £125 per night. Check-in time: 3pm, check-out time: 11am. The Pierhouse Hotel, Port Appin, Argyll, PA38 4DE (01631 730 302, www.pierhousehotel.co.uk)

Related topics:ScotlandPeople