Malmaison Edinburgh City, hotel review, Scotland on Sunday travel

Malmaison Edinburgh City is at 22 St Andrew Square, the former townhouse of Dr Joseph Bell, said to be the inspiration for Sherlock Holmes

Malmaison Edinburgh City, Edinburgh

In September, Malmaison celebrated the 25th anniversary of the opening of its first-ever hotel – in Leith. That is something of an institution now but there’s a new kid in town, or rather city.Malmaison Edinburgh City is at 22 St Andrew Square and had its official launch this week. The building itself is a classic Georgian townhouse and the hotel takes up several floors, with different lifts for odd and even numbers.As a townhouse it was once home to Dr Joseph Bell, for whom Sir Arthur Conan Doyle worked as a clerk at Edinburgh Royal Infirmary. The great author said that Sherlock Holmes was loosely based on Bell “and his observant ways”.

Wining and diningThe highlight was undoubtedly a fine meal at Chez Mal, the hotel’s restaurant/bistro. Starters were Asian cured salmon and celeriac and truffle soup. The salmon and accompanying pickled vegetables were cured to perfection, retaining their flavour without a vinegary aftertaste. Soup may seem a bit dull for starter when eating out but this was superb. There was much more than a hint of truffle and the tiny cubes of tart apple, rather than just an afterthought, really freshened up the flavour.Mains were pan fried sea bass with sautéed mushrooms, gnocchi and roast squash sauce. The fish was perfectly cooked with crispy skin and succulent flesh and the sauce was delicious. The only possible criticism was that both the soup and the sauce with the sea bass could have been a bit hotter.A fine bottle of Pinot Grigio washed it all down.At £19.95 for two courses and £24.95 for three, the prix fixe menu is ridiculously good value. It is available Monday to Thursday, until 7pm on Friday and Saturday and after 6pm on Sunday.Before the meal, classic cocktails were the order of the day in the bar and a first-ever Dry Martini proved to be exactly that, drier than a desert fox in the midday sun and more delicious with every sip. A white Negroni was equally tasty but fruitier and, thankfully, lacking the medicinal whack in the mouth of Campari which accompanies the Milanese version.

Rooms at the Malmaison Edinburgh City, where dark tones and bold colours make for an intimate feel

Budget or boutique?Both. With the room rates and restaurant both very reasonable, it could make a claim to be at the high end of the budget market. However, the overall feel is very much of a boutique hotel. The designers have used dark colours and tones throughout which makes the whole experience of the interior very intimate. The artwork on the walls features jazzed up versions of Old Masters.The downstairs bar is stylish and exotic, with the slight feel of a colonial hotel.

Room serviceLarge comfy bed, large TV and stylish bathroom which didn’t actually have a bath but made up for that with a real super soaker of a cascade shower.

Worth getting out of bed forLocation, location, location. The hotel could not be more at the heart of the city. Perfect for access to the city’s many festivals, and most of the main art galleries and museums are within walking distance.The iconic Cafe Royal and Guildford Arms pubs are a very short walk away and, if you fancy catching a bit of the atmosphere of Rebus’ Edinburgh, the Oxford Bar is about ten minutes in the other direction.If it’s a show you’re after, the Playhouse is close by and, for venturing further afield during your stay, the bus and railways stations are almost on the hotel’s doorstep.

Little extrasA small platter of chocolates and fruit on arrival in the room was a nice touch.

Guestbook commentsOverall a very pleasant experience.Staff were welcoming friendly and extremely attentive. Service in both the bar and restaurant was prompt and efficient.Perfect for a city centre break.Graham Lindsay

Rooms only from £75, Malmaison Edinburgh City, 22 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 1AY, (0131-370 4600, www.malmaison.com/locations/edinburgh-city)