Travel: cruising the Gulf of Arabia

And that was just Iselda, the tango teacher. Deep in the wood-panelled and chandeliered beating heart of the good ship Brilliance of the Seas, our little group had surrendered our deck chairs in the sun for the rhythms of the Argentine streets and were swooning over the slick moves of the elegant Iselda and her suave, manly, snake-hipped – you may be detecting a hint of jealousy here – classically gaucho partner. “You must lead with the chest and take control,” Roberto was saying. “The woman must follow, and there are not many areas of modern life you can say that,” he concluded with a flourish and a hint of a macho smirk. Way to go, Roberto.

It could almost have been the captain speaking because, as all us nautical types know, ships are always female and captains almost invariably blokes. And so it proved to be several decks above, on the pristine bridge of the Brilliance, where Captain Henrick, a solidly-reassuring Dane, was the man in charge. Visits to the bridge can be arranged for a small charge and provide the best view of how this sleek, magnificently engineered leviathan of the seas is manoeuvred along the world’s shipping lanes and into and out of challenging ports without so much as a ripple in your gin and tonic. Captain Henrick became almost apoplectic when asked if he ever relinquished total control of his vessel. “Never,” he insisted. “The captain is always in charge.”

Perched high over the prow, standing on the bridge is almost like flying. The helmsman takes centre stage, although he pushes a joystick rather than grasping a wheel these days, and we enjoyed his panoramic view of the Straits of Hormuz, through which we were travelling. All around us were oil tankers racing for the Gulf of Arabia in one of the busiest sea routes in the world, only 14 miles separating the shores of Oman and Iran at its narrowest point. Moments earlier, our on-deck reverie had been disturbed by the whining engines of an Iranian coastguard spotter plane slowly crossing directly overhead in these hotly contested waters. The betting in the champagne bar, however, was on the crew taking a sneaky peek at the bikini-clad ladies in the swimming pool rather than any military intent.

It was a reminder mostly of the real world beyond the comforting and womb-like embrace of the Brilliance, our floating home for a seven-day cruise of the United Arab Emirates and Oman. The Brilliance is a big ship – and quite overwhelming for first-time cruisers – with its 12 decks, multiplicity of restaurants, cafés, bars, gym, theatre and hundreds of cabins, serving around 2,500 passengers when full. But it is remarkable how quickly you learn to navigate the 90,000-ton ship, despite its at first confusing long and almost identical corridors.

One way of lessening the transition before the cruise begins – particularly for families – is to take some time ashore at a resort like Atlantis, in Dubai, with its landmark luxury hotel and award-winning water park, where intrepid visitors whoosh down from a Mayan temple and through a shark-filled pool, albeit safely encased inside a perspex tube. It’s great way to unwind after the flight and catch some winter sun – about 25°C – before boarding the ship through a dedicated dock-side check-in. Then there’s a couple of hours to get your on-board bearings and take part in a compulsory and hugely reassuring muster drill that teaches all on board where their lifeboat station is and how to get there should the unexpected happen. As darkness obscures the Burj Khalifa, at present the tallest building in the world and a literal highlight of any time spent in Dubai, the Brilliance heads into the darkness of the Gulf, leaving the bright lights of the city behind. Departures are usually in the evenings so passengers wake next morning to a new destination.

Days and nights begin to assume a dreamy pattern, based loosely around meal times. Abundant and high-quality food and soft drinks are available all day and, despite the number of passengers on board, everyone seems to locate a favoured spot. Of course, the deck area around the pool and hot tubs will be busy, but seek out the quieter areas towards the stern and you can almost feel the boat is your own. If you tire of lounging about in British summer temperatures – without fail, every day – then those tango lessons, or any number of physical or intellectual activities, may attract. Most of the top deck is a games area.

At night, it’s time to scrub up and hit the metaphorical town. It’s then the bars come alive with music, the theatre puts on its shows, the casino wheels start turning and, on a least two nights, men get out their dickie bows and dinner suits and the ladies parade in their finery. Most passengers dine in the main restaurants at set times – one way around this is a My Dining card, which allows times to be chosen for a small extra payment – and where the quality of the fare is high and matched by the efficiency and friendliness of the service. Other options include a range of fine-dining restaurants for an additional charge.

Carousing into the night is an option but so too is retiring along the ship’s corridors to well-appointed cabins, kept immaculately shipshape by staff who will require – and deserve – a tip at the end of your cruise.

But it’s not all about the ship. Our first port of call was Fujairah, one of the least-known of the seven Emirates. Day trips off the ship are offered but were underwhelming. The much-trumpeted market was a row of sheds selling the usual Arabian fare at either side of a dual carriageway, while the mountain safari was distinctly lacking in mountains. The local guides had driven in from Dubai.

Much more rewarding was the full-day trip on the first of our two days in Muscat. There was desert-bashing in the Wahiba Sands and a cool dip in natural pools deep in a (real) mountain wadi. Perhaps too many hours in the car to get there and back, but no pain, no gain. A good leg-stretcher is to leave the ship and walk to the local souk and then along the promenade to the impressive palace of the Sultan, outside which Omani newlyweds pose for pictures to start their honeymoon.

Back through the straits, the Brilliance sails past Dubai to the opulence of Abu Dhabi and its ostentatious displays of wealth. For many, though, the greatest experience is spiritual, with a visit to the glorious Grand Mosque. The size of five football pitches, the mosque’s white domes, walls and columns dominate the south end of Abu Dhabi island and it never fails to impress either from a distance or within its borders. Appropriate clothing – back abbayas for women, long trousers for men – are provided as part of the entrance fee.

The final port of call is Dubai, with its traditional souks, state-of-the-art shopping malls and landmark buildings. Enticing as these might be, it was hard to walk down the Brilliance’s gangway for the last time without feeling a pang of regret at the self-contained and ultimately relaxing lifestyle we were leaving behind.