World Whiskies Awards 2012: Foreign whisky puts Scotch on the rocks

SCOTLAND’S whisky makers will need a stiff drink. The nation’s long-established distillers have been humbled by overseas imitators in a global contest to find the finest whiskies.

Japan’s Yamazaki 25 Years Old defeated a host of Caledonian competitors to be named as the best single malt at the 2012 World Whiskies Awards (WWA). And in a further blow to Scottish pride, a South African dram took the title of the world’s best blended whisky.

The victory of Three Ships, which is produced in the Western Cape, is a sobering reminder of the growing threat from previously unheralded countries to the dominance of Scottish brands. The contest, which was judged by an international panel of experts, was dominated by foreign whiskies, which emerged triumphant in four of the six major categories. Another Japanese brand, Taketsuru, was named as the world’s best blended malt and Ireland’s Greenore won the award for best grain whisky.

But aficionados of homegrown uisge beatha – the water of life – can take a measure of consolation from the fact that Dunkeld Atholl Brose took the title for best whisky liqueur, while Black Bull 40 Years Old, which is produced in Huntly, Aberdeenshire, was voted the best new release.

Whisky expert Jim Murray accused some Scottish industry figures of being complacent in the face of growing competition from abroad. The writer, who compiles the prestigious annual Whisky Bible, said: “I sometimes think some individuals in the Scotch whisky industry might be slightly tempted to believe their own hype.

“There is still an attitude in some quarters that, if it is not made in Scotland, then somehow it is not proper whisky.

“You can go out and get absolutely blown away by wonderful Scotch whiskies, but, on other occasions, you are left looking at your glass and thinking what the hell is that?

“They need to be much more on the ball as far as quality is concerned.”

Murray, who hosts blind tastings around the world, claimed people were often astonished by the quality of newly produced whiskies coming from countries other than Scotland.

He said: ‘If it is good, people automatically assume it is Scotch whisky. You can almost hear the sound of their jaws hitting the table when I tell them it comes from somewhere like Wales or India. However, people are now becoming increasingly wise to the fact that there are other excellent, non-Scottish whiskies out there.”

Rob Allanson, who chaired the WWA judging panel, insisted the Japanese and South African distilleries were worthy winners.

He said: “The Yamazaki is a stunning whisky which has balance, poise and complexity on all levels. The quality of the whisky that has been produced in Japan in recent years has been consistently very good.

“South Africa is not known as a whisky country so it did exceptionally well to take the title. It is a fledgling whisky nation which is starting to punch way above its weight.”

Allanson, the editor of Whisky Magazine, which organised the awards, insisted there was no chance of anti-Scottish bias.

He said: “Scotland is still turning out some world-beating whiskies, but this wasn’t their year. Each whisky is tasted four times by a global panel of experts. Every tasting is done blind so even I don’t know what they are.”

Corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper, which works with a number of whisky producers, claimed the industry was facing increased challenges.

A spokesman said: “Although Scotch whisky is now afforded the protection of international law, its position in the UK market is under assault from alternative products and the perception of whisky as a drink for the older generation.”

The Scotch Whisky Association, shrugged off the setback. Spokeswoman Rosemary Gallagher said: “Awards can be subjective, but we are not complacent. We welcome competition from other producers as it raises the profile of whisky.

‘We sell three times as much as our nearest competitor whisky and remain the leading internationally-traded spirit.”

Gallagher pointed out that last year exports hit a record level of £4.2 billion, an increase of 23 per cent on 2010.

She said: “As well as being the top choice among consumers in mature markets such as the US and France, we’re soaring in popularity in newer economies, such as Asia and South America where Scotch is the drink of choice among young, affluent consumers.”

• More than 300 whiskies competed in three blind tasting rounds for Whisky Magazine’s awards. The panel judging the entrants was drawn from drinks journalists and retailers across the world, with master blenders, distillers and brand ambassadors in the final round:

World’s best single malt

Yamazaki 25 Years Old: A super premium whisky carefully vatted from key malts and aged over 25 years in sherry butts.

Provenance: Shimamoto, Japan

Tasting notes: “A huge sherry punch in the mouth. Spicy, sweet, simple, utterly delicious.”

Price: Around £650

World’s best blended whisky

Three Ships 5 Years Old: A bold and unpretentious blend of South African and Scotch whisky.

Provenance: Wellington, South Africa

Tasting notes: “A palate of peppery haggis backed with a charcoal/waxy smoke.”

Price: Around £20

World’s best blended malt

Taketsuru 17 Years Old: A pure malt named after the distillery's founder.

Provenance: Yoichi, Japan

Tasting notes: “Freshly brewed oolong tea, warehouse floor, truffles on the nose. Palate gives blood orange and wood spice.”

Price: Around £75

World’s best grain whisky

Greenore 18 Years Old: Limited edition single Irish grain whiskey.

Provenance: Dundalk, Ireland

Tasting notes: “Treacle waffles, toffee, banana syrup, gorse flowers and a carpenter’s bench.”

Price: Around £75

World’s best whisky liqueur

Dunkeld Atholl Brose: A traditional blend of single malt whisky, herbs, honey and oatmeal.

Provenance: Forres, Moray

Tasting notes: “Cloves, Christmas spices, candied fruits and cinnamon.”

Price: Around £20