Wine: Vintage emporium

FANS of vintage champagne have been waiting with bated breath for the release of the best vintage of the 21st century from leading producers Pol Roger.

t last, after nine years maturing on its lees in their Epernay cellars, their vintage 2002 has been launched to much acclaim – but with an initial allocation of only 3,500 cases it will be in high demand.

“Everything went just right for us,” say the Pol Roger team. You might think you hear this every year, but 2002 is unanimously considered a great vintage. Unlike Bordeaux, where a vintage is produced every year, vintages in Champagne are “declared” by different houses only in the best years.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

It was a warm 2002 with a mild winter, average rainfall, few climatic problems and a very hot summer. The grapes were perfectly in balance with the right amount of acidity, fruit and sugar. Acidity and depth of fruit are essential for longevity – important in vintage champagne. This year Pol Roger used more grapes than usual from Ambonnay village “to help meld it together”.

So why are Pol Roger vintages so good? This independent house (a favourite of Winston Churchill) has an astounding reputation for producing champagnes that will last and last. The reason Pol Roger can achieve long-lasting quality is partly due to the depth and cool temperature of their cellars beneath the streets of Epernay which assist in slowing down the second fermentation process (which creates the fizz) so it takes two to three months, rather than just a few weeks. In addition, their use of two cool “debourbages” prior to the initial fermentation (must is settled at 8C for 24 hours) means Pol work with cleaner musts, with only 2 per cent solids, compared to other houses.

But these are not the only reasons. Pol Roger have resisted the temptation to expand. Production annually, at 1.6 million bottles, is less than other independent houses, Bollinger and Louis Roederer. With new investments by the current team headed by MD Patrice Noyelle and new winemaker Dominique Petit (who worked at Krug for 20 years), this cautious approach has paid off. Last year, owner Evelyn de Billy was offered more vineyards in Champagne to add to Pol’s portfolio, but she turned them down. Not only is Pol’s champagne superbly made, it is also fairly priced compared to other big names (like Krug) who have hiked their prices.

So what does their 2002 taste like? Other 2002s, such as Moet & Chandon 2002 (£40, Tesco), are more approachable now – but do not have the staying power of Pol Roger’s cuvée.

According to Scotland’s leading sommelier, John Power of Prestonfield House/The Witchery/The Tower Group, Pol Roger’s 2002 is “first rate”.

“I thought it was surprisingly open on the nose with fine brioche notes and mid weight on the palate with some attractive puppy fat,” says Power. “It was interesting to try it next to the 1996 and 1998 vintages as they were both very closed on release and for some time after – but this is lovely right now and will cellar well for at least ten years,” he says.

My advice – if you are a champagne aficionado – buy it now.