Wine: ‘Cutting a glass size is a very good start’

READERS may be surprised to hear me supporting the nattily named Drop a Drink Size campaign but, with almost a quarter more alcohol per head bought in Scotland than elsewhere in the UK, alcohol-related problems cannot be ignored.

There is, however, a balance to be struck. The links between alcohol and serious health issues are pretty clear yet, equally, many feel a small glass of wine can reduce that other significant health threat: stress. Here, then, are a few ways to inject some of that much-needed balance.

Cutting a glass size is a very good start. Psychologists at Pennsylvania University, experimenting with sweets, invited people to help themselves from a massive jar of their equivalent to pan drops, but gave them different-sized scoops. Those with the mega scoops took over 60 per cent more than those with smaller versions. Seemingly, nature really does abhor a vacuum as there is an irresistible urge to fill the empty space. So leave those opulent-sized glasses in the cupboard and defy modern convention by using champagne flutes for table wines – their height is very effective at deceiving the mind about quantities.

Taking advantage of the lower tax they attract, several producers now make reduced-alcohol wines, at 5.5 per cent by volume (abv). This gives us a bottle of wine with, crudely, the alcohol level of a pint of beer. But what does it taste like?

This has always been the problem. Traditional methods of keeping alcohol levels low tend to remove great lumps of flavour or leave the wine too sweet. Several recent products (Banrock Station springs to mind) do, however, show signs of improvement. Processes like the so-called spinning cone also give cause for optimism.

Reduced alcohol wines currently available are, however, fundamentally different to what we normally drink and should be approached with different expectations. Over several centuries, conventional wine has built up a texture, substance, depth and complexity that, understandably, reduced alcohol wines and their kin have yet to attain.

My review of lower-alcohol wines started with whites, and our tasters picked out two. The relatively new Banrock Station Light White (£5.49, Tesco) is a 5.5 per cent blend of sauvignon and chardonnay that provides a pleasant, straightforward bottle with hints of peach and pear and the very light body that typifies all the wines we tasted. The residual sugar seems to have overpowered any trace of the sauvignon but the wine does have about 40 per cent fewer calories than a comparable bottle at 12 per cent.

However, if you stretch the alcohol up to 10.5 per cent, 2011 Jacob's Creek Cool Harvest Sauvignon Blanc (£8.99, Sainsbury’s) represents a more orthodox option, with its clear sauvignon nose, slight prickle and pronounced crisp, lime-based flavours.

Regrettably, we could not find a red to recommend but there are some presentable rosés. One, the rosé companion to the Banrock Station white, has uncluttered, fresh, strawberry fruit while Stowells Light Rosé (£4, Asda) has some gentle flowery, cherry touches – even if it is on the sweetish side of the spectrum. 

Both examples of summery rosé fizz from Brand Phoenix work pretty well. First Cape Café Collection Sparkling Rosé (£5.99, Sainsbury’s) is the lighter of the two, with fresh strawberry fruit and very lively bubbles. Encounter Bay Sparkling Rosé (£6.99, Tesco) has more substance but its refreshing raspberry fruit does seem a tad sweeter.

There is no need to abandon conventional wine altogether, however, since Gibo Asti (£7.99, M&S) is a mere 7.5 per cent yet gives sparkling, perfumed and creamy red apple fruit. So does La Rovere Moscato Spumante (£4.99, Morrisons), which has an abv of seven per cent. Naturally, both wines have generous amounts of sweetness.

Another attractive wine (at 8.5 per cent) is the well made 2010 Riesling Dr. L (£11.99, Sainsbury’s), with its clean, off-dry, ripe pear and melon flavours.

For many of us, wine plays a part in making our life an enjoyable one. But possibly, by applying some quite modest ideas to its use, we could also help make it a longer one.

BEST BUYS

2010 Rawnsley Estate Chardonnay

New South Wales, Australia, 12.5 per cent

Oz gets its act together well in this smooth white with restrained oak and alcohol, yet attractive apricot flavours skilfully balanced with gentle, lemon-based freshness. £5.49 (down from £10.99 until 13 March), Tesco

2011 Casa Leona Cabernet Sauvignon

Rapel Valley, Chile, 13.5 per cent

A nicely balanced red with attractive spice and mocha touches yet vibrant black cherry fruit, courtesy of those cooling Andes breezes. £5.99 (down from £7.49 until 4 March), M&S