Wine: A classic Austrian grape is thriving in New Zealand

Gruner veltliner (aka gru-vee) is a very Austrian grape, but its aromatic flavour could have potential in cool microclimates Down Under, provided the Kiwis do not over-exploit it.

New Zealanders have been successful with sauvignon blanc, but now with over-commercialisation they are in danger of losing the quality edge they are known for. Gruner veltiner is another vigorous high-yielder, which needs to be kept in check with strict pruning, shoot thinning and fruit trimming. Overcropping is one of the biggest problems with the grape in parts of Austria as it dilutes flavour.

“Gruner veltiner does suit cool climates, but we are still learning how best to manage it,” says Heidi Siefried. Her Austrian-born father, Hermann Siefried, has been successful with other aromatic varietals in Nelson, so he was one of the first in the queue in New Zealand at the nursery when gru-vee cuttings became available. “We plant it in a stony old river bed where we have had success with riesling and gewurztraminer,” she says. They also grow Austria’s red zweigelt in the same Bridgewater vineyard.

Yealands in Marlborough’s Awatere valley plant on terraces where the wind-blown loess soils are similar to Austria’s Wachau. They first planted gruner in 2007, with 2011 their first vintage, so vines are still very young – but the wine has impressed Gordon Ramsay enough to list it at his Claridges restaurant.

There are only 30 hectares of gruner veltliner in New Zealand, a tiny amount compared to Austria’s 17,000. Elsewhere you find it in Slovakia (2,500 hectares), Czech Republic (2,500 hectares) and minute amounts in Hungary, Argentina and Oregon, USA.

One difference I found between Kiwi and top Austrian Wachau examples is the ‘minerality’ factor. I found far less crisp minerality, less acidity, less vivid purity in the New World gruners. Some were just too sweet with a feeling of alcohol imbalance – but a few were very attractive with juicy zestiness.