Wine: ‘Chefs view beer as a versatile food companion’

Given its extensive flavour and range of density, a number of chefs now seem to view beer as a more versatile companion to food than wine. Indeed, a book due out next month, Let Me Tell You about Beer, by Melissa Cole, includes a whole section on matching beer and food.

Major national retailers have also stepped up their interest – although, to be fair, the Waitrose British Beer Showcase (which runs until 8 November) is now in its fifth year. In May, however, Sainsbury’s weighed in by inaugurating a Great British Beer Hunt. So, to add my small voice to the clamour, here are some of the stars I have encountered.

In collaboration with Henk Oexman of Heineken, Caledonian Brewery (the award-winning Deuchars people) has produced Flying Dutchman Wit Bier. It is a seasonal beer – that will reappear next spring in bottle and cask – with real harmony between the smoothness of the malt and the bitterness of the hops, all rounded off nicely with concluding touches of orange.

Another departed friend is Harviestoun Wild Hop IPA, with its enjoyable silky softness and hints of grapefruit. But, alas, it was a limited (and now expired) edition. Instead, confirmed IPA fans should look out for Thornbridge Jaipur India Pale Ale (£2.25, Waitrose), made by an innovative brewer and treating drinkers to an extensive flavour range that includes honey, cloves and citrus fruits.

The most successful Scottish beer in the Sainsbury’s Beer Hunt was Caesar Augustus Lager IPA Hybrid, brewed by Williams Bros of Alloa. It finished as overall runner-up, which gives it a place in 150 UK Sainsbury’s stores (£1.89 for a 50cl bottle). This is a golden beer with a discernable granary nose, a liveliness and exactly the right balance between sweetness and bitterness – which, no doubt, is what impressed the judges.

No review of Scottish beers should be without I&G, and my selection is another limited edition – the full, smooth, complex Innis & Gunn Triple Matured (from £2.95 for 330ml, Drinkmonger and Peckhams). Despite its name, it is not excessively woody on the palate, but the oak does provide nice touches of caramel and butterscotch without compromising the clean finish.

Anyone convinced students and profanity are inextricably mixed will have a field day with Profanity Stout (£2 for a 330ml bottle, Vino Wines, Edinburgh). It was designed by two students on the Heriot Watt brewing course, made more widely available through Williams Bros and currently winning friends. It is a rich and (obviously) dark tipple with coffee flavours, appealing freshness and a creamy but lively texture.

Although beer clearly works well with food, so too can cider. Something like Waitrose Vintage French Cider (£1.99 for 500ml) is rightly part of the culinary landscape in its native Normandy. Its dry, citrus finish perfect ly complements, say, a balanced pork dish – and its lovely Calvados nose adds extra Gallic charm.

Even more versatile, however, is Heston from Waitrose Special Mulled Cider (£3.99 for 750 ml). Blended from ciders specially selected by Mr Blumenthal, it provides full and rich flavours, but the cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger that tunes in to the finish are sufficiently mellow to work well with selected oriental dishes.

So, when organising a meal among friends, give a thought to using beer or cider. As we found, the result could be a very pleasant surprise.

Piccini Memoro Vino D’Italia Italy, 14 per cent A rich and intense yet surprisingly soft red with attractive flavours of cherry and mocha. £9.49, Tesco

2010 Errazuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Chile, 13.5 per cent Robust yet smooth gooseberry fruit overlaid with touches of mandarin. £7.99, Majestic (part of a mixed case).

2008 Unfiltered Kontoyianni Merlot Greece, 13 per cent Blackcurrant-centred acidity and a finish that combines vanilla with just enough tannic grip. £11.99, Penicuik Wines