Season’s eatings: How Scotland is getting a taste for local, seasonal produce

LOCALLY sourced, seasonal produce has always been top of the menu for the food aficionado. Now the rest of us, even in government, are getting a taste for it, discovers Nick Drainey

When Fraser Reid set off for Donegal to visit family he didn’t realise it would be a life-changing journey, certainly not one involving a peapod. But it was while in Ireland that he developed a passion for eating fresh, locally grown food; something which is taking hold across Scotland, from kitchen tables to chefs, and greengrocers to Holyrood.

The Scottish Government in June launched an app to provide recipes and help shoppers find the best available seasonal produce.

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In addition, a YouGov poll found 79 per cent of Scots think buying locally produced food supports their community economy, while 54 per cent say it is important that Scottish food is available at their local supermarket.

Those attitudes are music to the ears of Fraser Reid. He says: “I was on holiday in Ireland and I was in a greengrocer’s and was eating fresh peas from the pod – and just absolutely loved it. That sweetness is just so nice, it is a really nostalgic thing that people remember.”

When he returned to Dundee he couldn’t find a greengrocer’s that sold fresh peas so he left his job in an arts centre and “thought he would open one”. Since that day in 2009 the 28-year-old has seen his Dundee greengrocer’s – Fraser’s Fruit and Veg – thrive.

The abundance of produce in Scotland means there is no excuse but to eat locally sourced food. Mr Reid says: “We can get so much from around about here – the Carse of Gowrie and over in Fife and to Angus – it is not a massive urban place. So, if we can get it locally we do.” And the enthusiasm is growing, with produce currently in season including Scottish broccoli, cauliflowers, kale, pumpkins and apples.

Reid adds: “If you are looking for something a bit different, go to a local greengrocer and see if you can get some romanescu. It is an amazing vegetable; it looks like a piece of science, a spider’s web. It is a kind of cross between broccoli and cauliflower – we get them from a farm in Longforgan, five miles away. We can’t keep them in stock – they taste great and look brilliant.”

This is no time for sitting back and relaxing, a lot of work still needs to be done to educate shoppers about seasonality. Mr Reid says: “There is a real lack of knowledge of what is in season at the moment. Cookery programmes are helping but you get people in January asking for Scottish tomatoes.

“It is improving. We are educating ourselves and our customers on what to buy. For example, I would advise people not to buy pears until next month when there are local ones.

“If you can get people, especially young children, to take ownership of the food and help cook it, they have something invested in eating it as opposed to it just being put on a plate for them.”

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As well as the health benefits, the taste of locally grown fresh food is a big attraction, as well as a source of excitement for some, according to Reid. He says: “You will notice the difference in flavour completely. You can look at the carbon footprint on food – it is a major thing people are aware of.

“We are getting squash in from Cupar, 11 miles from the door. You know it is a young farmer who has taken the time to grow it and he is going to sell it, there is something quite nice about that. When the farmer drops it off people are excited seeing it come off the back of a Landrover. I don’t need to take it out of the box … it will just be sold because people see it is so fresh.”

The Greener Scotland Recipe Finder app, launched as part of a Scottish Government campaign to promote the idea of eating foods which are in season, has more than 230 recipes on it, including some from top Scottish chefs such as Nick Nairn and Tom Kitchin.

Michelin-starred Kitchin says speaking to suppliers is the best way to find out what is the best on offer. He says: “As a Scotsman and chef, I am truly fanatical about Scottish seasonal produce at the restaurant and at home. Once you begin to work with the seasons not only will your knowledge of food develop but you will also become more appreciative of the wonderful flavours available right on your doorstep.

“There are so many tools available nowadays to give you advice on what tastes best when. The Scottish Government’s app can help you to choose what to eat and when, as well as providing you with some delicious recipes. I would also recommend speaking to your local producers and suppliers to find out what’s available. They are the key to creating incredible dishes at home – they will be able to tell you what they have in fresh that day and offer you advice on how best to prepare fresh ingredients.

“Once you get to grips, you can begin to think about what flavours complement one another and start creating dishes yourself where the natural flavours shine through.”

Edinburgh Farmers’ Market has been going for 12 years, at first as a monthly event but now a weekly fixture in the city. Brian McAteer, an organiser of the market, said the recession meant shoppers were spending less money but they were still turning up in droves.

He said: “Everybody is spending that little bit less but at the same time people do appreciate the local produce and offers from the farmers’ market that you can’t get at the supermarkets. We do have our regulars who come every week to the market. They love coming to speak to the producers and know what they are buying.”

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But why bother going to a farmers’ market when shops are open longer and the choice is greater?

McAteer is adamant: “You are speaking to the producers directly; the farmer or the maker of the product. You can’t get that going to a lot of other places … it is fresh and local and you’re supporting the local producers. It is great that you can get hints and tips on what to do with the product.”

10 ways to eat green and in season

1 KNOW WHAT’S IN SEASON AND WHEN.

When it comes to taste, eating flavoursome, in-season food with the best crunch and colour is the way to go. Download your free calendar to see what’s tasty and in season in Scotland month by month at

2 ONLY BUY WHAT YOU NEED.

A lot of what’s thrown away never makes it out of the packet – write a shopping list and check your fridge first. It’s better to buy fresh food little and often.

3 CREATE IN-SEASON RECIPES.

Find new ways to create delicious and nutritious meals using in-season produce. There are lots of ideas to get you started in the Greener Scotland recipe finder at www.greenerscotland.org/eating-greener/recipe-finder

4 PLAN YOUR PORTIONS AND FREEZE LEFTOVER FOOD

Planning portions can help us to make the right quantities at mealtimes. Any leftover food can often be refrigerated or frozen to use

later.

5 LOOK FOR THE GROWN LOCALLY LABEL.

Where possible, go for produce grown locally and in season where you live. Buying meat fresh from the butcher or meat counter could give you more choice of cuts and reduce packaging.

6 ORDER FROM A LOCAL FARM PRODUCE BOX SCHEME.

Buying produce direct from a farm could mean tastier and fresher produce. And it’s not just vegetables – you can add milk, fruit and fresh eggs to an order.

7 TRY BEFORE YOU BUY.

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Shopping at a farmers’ market means buying direct, getting in-season foods at their freshest, and it can also be a great day out. Stalls will often have samples of local produce for you

to try before you buy.

8 GROW YOUR OWN VEG.

Growing your own means fruit, veg and herbs for less. A little outlay is needed to get started, but growing your own food can help to cut down on food miles, trips to the shops and wasteful packaging.

9 MAKE THE MOST OUT OF LEFTOVERS.

Don’t throw away leftovers. Use last night’s chicken carcass for a soup stock, make your own broth with leftover veg or use frozen fruit to make milkshakes or a smoothie.

10 FIND OUT MORE

For more information and to access a recipe finder and food calendar visit www.greenerscotland.org/eating-greener

Source: Scottish Government