Recommended restaurant: Cafe Fish

PRIDING itself on using the freshest seasonal produce, Cafe Fish has found a winning formula and has just been named Scottish Seafood Restaurant of the Year.

Although concise, the menu offers a broad range of delicious seafood, and a few options for those mad enough not to like fish.

I chose the seared Orkney scallops with celeriac puree and apple salad (£2 supp) – celeriac was actually artichoke due to lack of availability. The scallops tasted as if they had come straight from the sea and were perfectly complemented by the puree. The salad was slightly overshadowed by the scallops but rounded the dish off nicely.

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My friend went for the intriguing treacle-cured salmon with jelly, cucumber, keta and olives. Whilst it sounds a touch odd, the dish was a mix of textures and flavours that was clearly put together with thought.

On the advice of the staff, I chose the Malaysian monkfish and tiger prawn curry with lemon and coriander rice (£3 supp). Great recommendation. The rice comes on the side for all those carb skimmers, and adds a fresh, light taste. The pan-roasted red mullet with fennel, potato, roast pepper and chorizo black olives was equally flavoursome. Not a particularly common sight on a menu, it is a delicate fish in flavour and texture, with satisfyingly crispy skin which, teamed with the more robust sides, worked brilliantly.

We decided to share a dessert – ginger cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Creamy and crunchy, sweet and tartly sour, this is a dangerously wonderful combination.

At £22 per head for two dishes, and a menu which changes regularly, it is well worth a visit.

• Cafe Fish, 15 North West Circus Place, 0131-225 4431, www.cafefish.net

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