Recipes: Asparagus risotto with smoked haddock | Baked asparagus and Parmesan custards | Asparagus, toasted pinenuts and Parma ham salad with lime and mustard dressing

I DID try not to write about asparagus this year, but it is a subject impossible to ignore. Asparagus is one of our great seasonal culinary treats, but only when our own, British, asparagus is ready to eat.

I DID try not to write about asparagus this year, but it is a subject impossible to ignore. Asparagus is one of our great seasonal culinary treats, but only when our own, British, asparagus is ready to eat.

Or even better, when Scottish asparagus is available. This year, asparagus was for sale earlier than usual, along with every other plant, due to the mild weather. We have been able to buy it for several weeks now, and I fear that accordingly, its season will end quite soon. But that is one of the attractions of eating seasonally; food becomes a continuous treat. Imported asparagus just does not taste anything like as good as that grown in this country.

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Asparagus is widely useful, both in cold and hot dishes. It combines deliciously with ham and bacon, with shellfish and fish of all kinds, with lemon and with cheese, especially with Parmesan. I love asparagus, whether steamed or brushed with olive oil and roasted.

Asparagus risotto with smoked haddock

This is such a very good lunch or supper dish, needing only a mixed leaf salad to accompany the risotto.

Serves 6

3-4 tablespoons olive oil

2 onions, each skinned, halved and finely diced

12oz/340g risotto rice, eg arborio

¼ pint/140ml dry white wine

1lb/450g asparagus, the tops cut off and kept to one side, the rest of the stalks chopped and simmered in 1½ pints/1 litre stock - I use chicken stock - until tender. Then whiz to a smooth texture with a hand-held blender

1lb/450g filleted smoked haddock

1 teaspoon salt, about 20 grinds of black pepper

grated rind of 1 lemon

2oz/55g butter

1 heaped tablespoon of finely chopped parsley

In a wide deep sauté pan heat the olive oil and, over moderate heat, fry the finely diced onions, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. The onions should be transparent and soft, but not changed in colour. Stir in the rice, stirring it well, for a minute or so, the aim being to coat each grain of rice in oil.

Stir in the white wine, let it bubble and virtually evaporate before stirring in some of the asparagus puree/stock. Stir and cook gently, and when the liquid is almost gone, add more from the jug of asparagus stock. Meanwhile, feel the smoked haddock and cut out any bones you feel. Cut the fish into even sized chunks, about 1in/2.5cm in size.

When almost all the asparagus stock is incorporated into the risotto, taste it and season with salt and black pepper, and stir in the finely grated lemon rind, and the butter, cut in bits. The butter gives the risotto a gloss as well as rounding off the flavour.

Stir in the pieces of smoked haddock, which will cook in the heat of the risotto, and the asparagus tips. Lastly, stir in the remainder of the asparagus stock. Don’t let the risotto become too stiff and stodgy, it should spread on the plate. The pieces of smoked haddock will take about 5 minutes to cook through once added to the risotto. Just before serving, stir the finely chopped parsley through the risotto.

Baked asparagus and Parmesan custards

These make a good first course. They come to no harm sitting, if kept warm.

Serves 6

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Butter 6 ramekins and dust out each with 1 tablespoon finely grated Parmesan

1lb/450g asparagus, the tough ends chopped away, the rest of the asparagus steamed until just tender when stuck with a fork.

1 large egg plus 2 large egg yolks

¼ pint/150ml single cream

2oz/55g finely grated Parmesan

about 15 grinds of black pepper, a grating of nutmeg, ½ teaspoon salt – the Parmesan contributes saltiness so this should be enough salt for most palates

Put the steamed asparagus into a food processor and whiz to a smooth puree.

Beat together the egg and yolks and single cream, and beat the asparagus puree thoroughly into this mixture, adding the grated Parmesan.

Divide evenly between the prepared ramekins. Put the ramekins into a roasting tin and pour nearly boiling water halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in a moderate heat, 350F/180C/Gas Mark 4 for 20 minutes, or until the puffed up asparagus custards feel firm when gently pressed in the centre. Take them out of the oven and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Then, run a knife around the inside of each and shake them out onto warmed serving plates. If you like, steam a few more asparagus spears and serve the turned out asparagus and Parmesan custards with two spears at the side of each. Alternatively, serve with a small clump of dressed salad leaves.

Asparagus, toasted pinenuts and Parma ham salad with lime and mustard dressing

Serves 6 as a first course

1½ lb/680g asparagus, the tough ends cut or snapped off

3oz/85g pinenuts, dry-fried to toast, till beige in colour, then cooled

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1 packet of Parma ham, which is generally 7-8 slices, cut into strips – easiest done with scissors

For the dressing

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 level teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon salt, about 15 grinds of black pepper

grated rind of 1 lime and its juice

First, roast the asparagus by putting the trimmed stalks in an even layer on a roasting tin. Brush with olive oil and roast in a hot oven, 400F/200C/Gas Mark 6 for 15 minutes.

In a bowl, mix together the pinenuts and Parma ham strips.

Make the dressing by mixing all the ingredients together thoroughly.

To serve, divide the roasted asparagus spears or stalks evenly on 6 plates. Put a small heap of the pinenut and Parma ham mixture at one side, and, using a teaspoon, trickle a small amount of the dressing over everything.

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