Travel: Macdonald Rusacks Hotel, St Andrews

With golf legend Old Tom Morris plying his trade just yards away, he established his guest house in a grand terrace of buildings running alongside the 18th fairway of the Old Course and opened in 1887.

It may have been a gamble, but it certainly paid off. Guests have now been enjoying this virtually unchanged grandstand view of the links, the beach and the Angus coastline for more than 120 years.

WINING AND DINING? Rusacks has gone unashamedly for the upmarket end of the dining experience by bringing in Adrian Pieraccini to run both its flagship Rocca Bar and Grill and gastro pub The One Under.

With the Italian-themed Rocca closed for the evening, we descended to the cosy confines of The One Under, where bistro classics combine with dishes with a heavy hint of the East Neuk.

Pittenweem crab with apple and tomato salad was the star of the starters, although the potted outdoor-reared pork with apricot and pistachio, crusty bread and apple and fig chutney ran it close. We then plumped for the braised Italian sausage with Umbrian lentils, streaky bacon and roasted vegetables and the baked fillet of Tay salmon – neither disappointed. Bramley apple crumble with cider ice-cream rounded off a satisfying meal.

BUDGET OR BOUTIQUE?

It’s not budget, although  there are some very good  off-peak seasonal deals to  be had. That’s when St Andrews is less mobbed  and at its most atmospheric.

ROOM SERVICE? The best rooms are those with an Old Course view. We were at the front of the building, in the Young Tom Morris suite. A small sitting room leads to a bright and comfortable bedroom, which echoes the period feel of the building. Plonking in an armchair with a newspaper and a cup of tea while keeping an eye on dusk descending over the links was a particular pleasure.

WORTH GETTING OUT OF BED FOR? The town itself never disappoints, with its wealth of history, cobbled alleyways, walks along the West Sands, welcoming pubs and increasingly sophisticated restaurants. But it’s not a trip to St Andrews without a game of golf, whether that’s on the always entertaining 18-hole putting green, The Himalayas or one of the proper courses. Out of town, the changes made to the back nine holes of the Duke’s Course are bedded in and the course is beginning  to realise its full potential.  The St Andrews Bay courses – the Torrance and the Kittocks – are also worth a new look after expensive makeovers.

LITTLE EXTRAS? A lobby you want to recline in on account of the deep sofas, and a warming fire and art gallery in the form of the works of golf artist Joe Austin. Giant portraits of the modern golfing greats such as Jack Nicklaus adorn the walls and, although they may not be to everyone’s taste, American clubhouses that have bought his works have earned this guy a fortune. For the real thing, the hotel’s golf concierge will sort you out with a good deal.

GUESTBOOK COMMENTS?

Golfing history is in with the bricks here, and there is no better place to soak up the atmosphere of St Andrews’ love affair with hitting a little white ball with a stick. There’s also a great choice of food without having to step outside.

From £280 per night, Macdonald Rusacks Hotel, Pilmour Links, St Andrews, Fife (0844 879 9136, www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk).