Travel: The Inn at Lathones, Fife

IN ONE of the coldest weekends of the year, battling driving sleet and unpredictable potholed roads, only one thought occupied my mind: please God, let there be a roaring fire. Actually, there were two thoughts: the other was, let the bar be open.

Fortunately, the warm welcome I had prayed for was provided, not just by the wood-burning stove (and the large Tanqueray and tonic), but also the ever-smiling, friendly staff who completely restored my faith in Scottish hospitality (and who have helped the venue win a VisitScotland Gold award for service quality).

Room service? This coaching inn near St Andrews has been welcoming weary travellers for 400 years, though these days its clientele is as likely to include rock fans or guitar geeks as a saddle-sore gentleman sparing the horses on his long journey south.

On the weekend we visited, Jennifer Batten was playing The Stables. It must have been quite a comedown from the three Michael Jackson tours she has been on, not to mention her 1993 Super Bowl performance, but she seemed to be having a good time. The following night we could have seen Hank Wangford, while Andy Fairweather Low and Fairport Convention are lined up for later in the year, as well as a potential songwriting workshop with Chris Difford – all of which have helped win the inn Best Music Venue in the UK Publican awards.

Wining and dining? The AA has awarded it two rosettes for the 12th year running, so it must be doing something right. We started with foie gras crme brle with toasted brioche and tian of local potted crab with lobster butter and crayfish tails, followed by baked turbot with hand-dived scallops and leek and potato crumble, plus a wildly decadent venison and mixed game steamed affair with Stornoway black pudding. Everything was presented beautifully by a chef who clearly has a passion for local produce. Even my scrambled eggs for breakfast next morning came in a pretty tower, balanced atop a disc of wholemeal bread and served with a sliver of local smoked salmon.

Budget or boutique? The inn may be 400 years old but our bedroom was modern and super-spacious, with lots of wood and slate flooring, a huge shower and Jacuzzi bath, plus patio doors leading to decking and a view stretching across the fields. Of particular importance on the weekend we visited was the fact that it was as warm as toast.

Hidden extras? We were offered fresh milk for the room, rather than those horrid UHT pots. It's a small touch but makes a big difference.

Worth getting out of bed for? Of course there's the golf, and the beaches of St Andrews, though just as worthy of a round are the courses at Balcomie, Lundin Links, Scotscraig and Ladybank. And the hotel has a drying room and shoe and club-cleaning equipment available to guests. Local attractions include Aberdour Castle, the Scottish Deer Centre and Fife Folk Museum. For those with more activity in mind, there are glorious coastal walks along the East Neuk, clay pigeon shooting at Cluny Clays (www.clunyclays.co.uk) and off-road driving (www.scotoffroad.co.uk).

Guestbook comments? Such great food and friendly surroundings, it seemed churlish to ask them to turn the music down. The Inn is near Largoward, on the outskirts of St Andrews, Fife (01334 840494, www.theinn.co.uk). Standard rooms are 180 per night; deluxe are 245; suites are 300. For deals and special offers, see the website.

• This article was first published in The Scotland On Sunday on April 04, 2010