Travel: India

As well as the sprawling metropolis of Delhi, site of eight successive cities, Agra and its Taj Mahal, and the Pink City of Jaipur, I would take an elephant ride to the Amber Fort and go rafting in the Rishikesh stretch of the Ganga river.

Between cities I would travel by trains and buses, adventures in themselves which would undoubtedly have ended in disaster but for the help of kind Indian passengers.

As a country India is very diverse, its different parts separated by distance, language and religion. In this respect the Golden Triangle is a convenient snapshot, with all three main destinations within a few hours of each other.

Delhi, and particularly New Delhi, the eighth city which was founded by the British during colonial times, represents the new, modern and ever-evolving India. However, it successfully maintains its links with the past and is as vibrant, intoxicating and colourful as any part of the subcontinent.

Home to such stunning buildings as Humayun's Tomb and the Baha'l Temple, which looks as though it was inspired by the Sydney Opera House, it also contains the Red Fort and the 72-metre high Qutab Minar.

Samir Khan, a government-appointed guide, who shows people around the site of the Qutab Minar and its surrounding clutch of ancient mosques and temples, believes India has more to do to really capitalise on its tourist appeal.

"This part of the country is very rich in heritage, with so many beautiful buildings which are very old – the Qutab Minar dates back to the 12th century. But I think a lot of people don't come to India because either they think it is a very hard place to see, or they don't know what is here. We have to change that because tourism is very important to the people here," he says.

If history is not what you are seeking in a break, just wandering around Delhi is an experience not to be missed. First, a warning: it is hard to walk anywhere without being surrounded by a clutch of taxi and auto rickshaw drivers. Auto rickshaws are the best way to see Indian towns and cities, but do be wary of scams and agree the fare before setting off.

Miniature three-wheelers, generally with soft tops and no side doors or windows, their drivers are undaunted by their lack of size and weave in and out of bigger traffic with gusto. They are usually on commission to take tourists to shops, but this leads to the customer paying extra, so anyone intent on shopping should seek out their own stores.

In Delhi, I stayed at the Imperial Hotel and the Taj Mahal Hotel. The Taj is popular among visiting dignitaries, with Gordon Brown staying there last year. The epitome of Indian elegance, it boasts nice touches such as the colourful domes that arch into the ceiling of the lobby.

Every room has a fantastic view of New Delhi and the swimming pool and decking offer visitors the chance to relax away from the hustle and bustle of the city outside. The recently opened Varq restaurant serves beautifully cooked traditional Indian cuisine, which it would be a crime to miss out on if you stay here.

The Imperial is closer to the centre of New Delhi and sits in eight acres, with its entrance lined by 24 palm trees. Opened in 1936, it mixes Victorian and old colonial styles with a dash of art deco. Its attractions include a royal ballroom, cool and spacious gardens, walls lined with tasteful 18th and 19th-century paintings and the busy shopping area of Connaught Place just outside the door.

Aside from these two treats, most of my trip was done on a shoestring and there is no better way to see the Golden Triangle than to travel with the people who live there every day.

Tours of Rishikesh can be organised from Delhi, with cars sent to pick you up from your hotel. The journey is six hours along some very poor roads, but the reward is in the rural paradise where the Ganga meets the Himalayan range and activities such as rafting, hiking and yoga are in abundance.

Next stop was Agra, to which I travelled by train, home of the Taj Mahal and the capital of the Mughal Empire, the great Muslim nation that ruled much of India and beyond centuries ago.

This was a journey that provided a real insight into the poverty that still exists in parts of one of the world's fastest developing countries. Entire communities live in shanty towns, with no sign of running water and where the only buildings are crumbling foundations turned into homes with the help of tin and canvas. Yet more people still live packed in tents living under road bridges.

Aside from this, most of the land is given over to agriculture, with endless crop fields and isolated farmhouses. The town is far poorer than Delhi and is generally only visited for the Taj Mahal, although it has a laidback charm all of its own.

The Taj Mahal is regarded as one of the most beautiful buildings on the planet and it does not disappoint. Beyond a splendid courtyard, expansive gardens, fountains and a lake, the off-white marble tomb – the resting place of Mumtaz Mahal, a Mughal queen – is breathtaking. The best times to visit are at dawn and dusk when its appearance changes dramatically with the differing light.

Just outside Agra is Fatehpur Sikri, a 16th-century city built at great expense but used for less than 20 years before being mysteriously deserted, either for military reasons or possibly because of problems with the water supply. Either way, wandering around its good-as-new nooks and crannies is a wonderful way to while away a day.

Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, a territory combining desert with several glorious towns, each with their own dramatic histories and ruined forts.

This third point of the Golden Triangle has a reputation for being excessively busy, with visitors plagued by unbearable hassle from street traders and hawkers. However, this was not my experience. The Pink City, painted to welcome the Prince of Wales in 1853, is everything you would imagine an Indian bazaar to be: tightly knit stores teeming with life and bargains to be found on every corner.

The city succeeded the magnificent Amber Fort as the area's capital, and I enjoyed a once-in-a-lifetime elephant ride up the hill to its courtyard before resting my saddle-weary bones in the comfort of the Jai Mahal Palace hotel.

A former palace, parts of which date back to the early 18th century, it has glorious gardens, with two outdoor pools, tennis courts, putting green and a giant chess set.

It was the perfect setting to sit like a maharajah and watch the traditional Indian music and dancing laid on for guests, as the sun slipped over the horizon after another perfect Indian day.

Fact file

INDIA

The Taj Mahal Hotel (www.tajhotels.com), New Delhi, has rooms from 140 a night; the Imperial Hotel (www.theimperialindia.com), New Delhi, has rooms from 152; and the Jai Mahal (www.tajhotels.com), Jaipur, has rooms from 156.

Rafting on the Rishikesh costs from 138.42; Amber Fort elephant rides are 22.50; see www.isango.com for other activities.

Gareth Rose's flights were organised by Sta Travel (www.statravel.co.uk), which has return flights from 364. Flights from Heathrow with British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, Jet Airways or Air India start at 363.67.

This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, January 17, 2010