Travel: Hadrian Comfort Lodge

So even if we can't stretch out by the white sands and warm waters of the Mediterranean, we can still manage a spot of luxury close to home. Kielder Water, in Northumberland, is Europe's largest man-made reservoir. Situated almost halfway between Jedburgh and Hexham, it's a centre for all manner of watersports and has groups of lodges set around the lake.

Having done a bit of self-catering in the past, we have tended to find there are never sharp knives or tin openers provided, so we came prepared with quite a few of our own kitchen utensils. However, Kielder Water proved something of a revelation. We didn't need to unpack any of that stuff – it was all provided, in what estate agents would undoubtedly call an exceptionally well-appointed lodge.

We had a roomy three bedrooms with two bathrooms – bliss with a near-teen – one of which even had a whirlpool bath. We thought it was difficult getting girls out of the bathroom before but this proved an almost irresistible draw. The kitchen had the full array of appliances – dishwasher, microwave and washer-dryer, making it almost better equipped than home.

But, lovely though the accommodation was, we hadn't come here to sit inside. The centre may only have 30 or so lodges, but there is plenty on site to keep everyone occupied. Aside from the obvious lure of watersports – everything from kayaking to water-skiing – there is also a bird of prey centre, a beautiful nature garden, an artificial skating rink and a playpark with some of the highest chutes I've ever seen. While I got palpitations just looking at them, they certainly didn't faze the children, who spent hours happily whizzing down from a great height.

There are some great spots for fishing on the reservoir – but do say that you are staying at the lodges when you buy your permit, as it makes an enormous difference to the price. We, unfortunately, didn't know that beforehand. And it wasn't until the lovely woman who had served us overheard us talking, realised where we were based and immediately insisted on refunding our money that we found out about the discount available to residents. All of which meant we had more money to spend on lures and bait.

Every bit of it was needed, since none of our little fishermen managed to attract a single bite. But neither their lack of success – nor the pouring rain – deterred them in the least, and they quite determinedly kept on casting into the water. The fishermen perched next to us good-naturedly put up with the calm of their day being shattered and even offered their help with baiting hooks and casting technique. It made no difference, though – they quietly and steadily added to their catch while we stopped at the shop on the way home so that we could have fish for tea.

There is also a pool on site, which can be booked by individual lodges so you can have the entire place to yourself – wonderful for us, as some of our party – yes, me – don't like getting splashed by other swimmers. And it allowed the children to screech to their hearts' content without bothering anyone. Although that's probably because we could keep an eye on them from the quiet comfort of the poolside sauna.

The kitchen at the lodge may well be all-singing, all-dancing, but a holiday generally means getting to dodge the cooking. Luckily, there are a couple of great places nearby. The Boat Inn is the hub of the centre and is set right on the shore, allowing fantastic views over the water. You can sit at one of the many picnic tables set up outside or settle yourself at the other side of the panoramic windows if the weather turns nasty. Mind you, even a thunderstorm can look spectacular over the reservoir – especially if you're snuggled up on a sofa with a drink in your hand.

The restaurant does a great range of family meals (there are times when only chicken nuggets will do, and a holiday isn't always the time to enforce the five-a-day). The centre also has family entertainment: a children's magician kept our lot utterly entranced for an entire evening, something that is almost unheard of. It also allowed us peace to have our own evening meal.

Only a couple of miles down the road is the Pheasant Inn, which would have been a family walk away in my youth, but nowadays necessitates the use of the car. It was worth the trouble, though, because yet again we were treated to a restaurant that pulls out all the stops for family dining and provided a wonderful Sunday lunch. Nothing was too much trouble and they catered beautifully for our bunch, who suddenly decided to become adventurous and try nearly everything on the menu.

The lodges themselves are set in the forest, and there are well-planned walks and trails all around the water. The Forestry Commission has also set up guides and puzzles all through the woods, which means that if you're lucky enough to spot some of the amazing local wildlife, you can identify it. Species from red squirrels to pine weevils are on your doorstep – somewhere. But the forest also offers an abundance of a very familiar critter – the midge. The Keilder literature does warn you in advance about them, and we had come prepared with bottles of Skin So Soft. Every one of them was used before the end of our week.

Given the proximity to the border, a trip to Hadrian's Wall is almost compulsory, and Chesters Roman Fort – right on the River North Tyne – is a spectacularly well-preserved site. The children weren't the only ones who found it fascinating to climb all over a spot where actual Romans had been stationed – even the persistent drizzle didn't dampen their enthusiasm. Neither were they the only ones keen to try on the replica Roman armour which was on sale in the gift shop. Some people were happily indulging their Gladiator fantasies – although perhaps more Oliver Reed than Russell Crowe.

Aside from being the largest man-made lake in Europe, Kielder also boasts the darkest skies in England. With no light pollution, the night skies are perfect for stargazing. For those of us more used to sodium than stars, the new observatory is well worth a visit. Foreign holidays? Pah. Who needs sun when we have stars?

Fact File Kielder

Hadrian Comfort Lodge (sleeps four), from 279 to 1,095 per week.

Tynedale Classic (sleeps six) from 279 to 1,095 per week.

For offers and full details, contact Hoseasons (www.hoseasons.co.uk). Offers include up to 20 off short breaks, 50 off fortnights, up to 10 per cent off Midweek Savers, early bookings 2011 at 2010 prices, over 55s up to 20 off, up to 60 off 2010 early bookings, up to 25 per cent off for couples, and under fives, up to 20 off.

This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, January 31, 2010