Travel: Goa, India

OFTEN regarded as the most westernised part of India, Goa is still definitely worth a visit for those wanting to sample colourful cuisine, alternative culture and beautiful beaches. Situated in south-west India, Goa runs along the coast in pockets that alternate between mass tourism, hippy communes and areas of secluded natural beauty.

Sunshine-seekers pile on to charter flights and head to the big hotels and resorts of north Goa, while seasoned travellers stopping off on their way round India prefer the relaxed vibe in the south. As well as its recent tourism trade, the state has had a long history with the alternative scene. From the 1960s onwards, it has become a mecca for those seeking enlightenment in one way or another – be it meditating in yoga postures or dancing on a beach to Goa trance.

It is definitely worth sampling a bit of the laid-back hippy vibe while visiting the area, even if it’s just donning some cheesecloth or having ‘Om’ hennaed on to your wrist. The main hub for alternative communities, backpackers and hippies both young and old is Anjuna, a small town on the northern coast. Here you’ll find German bakeries and organic cafés nestled alongside shops selling glow sticks and trance CDs. Chill out overlooking the sea with a hookah and a vegan dhal at one of the cliff-top restaurants or rave it up with the best of them at Nine Bar. Don’t leave without visiting the flea market that sprawls across Anjuna every Wednesday, and the weekend night bazaar, a delightful mishmash of souvenirs, street food, clothes and junk.

From Anjuna, bypass the over-developed mass tourism of Calangute by heading south and slightly off the beaten track to Sernabatim or Benaulim – quiet, unpopulated beaches with white sand that gleams and crunches underfoot like snow. There are plenty of hotels and rooms to stay in along this stretch of coastline, often disregarded by holiday guides. In the evening, walk along the shore towards Colva and enjoy a typical Goan fish curry and live music at one of the beach shack restaurants. Instead of hordes of package tourists, expect to see Indian families enjoying picnics and games by the sea.

For picture postcard beauty, Palolem should not be omitted from any Goan itinerary. Fringed by palms, the beach is a haven for bronzed bodies, hip bars and part-time yoga enthusiasts. Often uncomfortably busy in January and February, Palolem is perfect towards the beginning or end of peak season. Eschew hotels and stay in one of the very basic but adorable beach shacks right on the beach in order to experience the true Palolem experience. Just £6 a night gets you a pastel-coloured hut with electricity, a ceiling fan, an en-suite (comprising toilet, cold shower and, most importantly, lots of toilet paper), a lock and a mosquito net. What else could you possibly need?

For those looking for something slightly more chilled and a bit more spiritual, Gokarna is the place to be. Apparently in-the-know backpackers and the more hipster hippies are migrating south to the border of Karnataka and this temple town, with its pilgrims, Sanskrit scholars and Om-shaped beach (to match your newly acquired tattoo).

If the sand in your swimming costume is starting to chafe and the sound of the ocean is giving you a headache, head inland to explore some of the stunning nature Goa has to offer. A couple of hours’ drive from the airport is the Dudhsagar waterfalls, reached only by piling into a very basic jeep that hurtles over the bumpiest terrain this side of the Himalayas. Shouting shotgun and nabbing the front seat is highly recommended if you treasure the top part of your head. After a short walk through the jungle, the first glimpse of the falls is worth the wait. Take a dip in the rock pool to cool off before the long journey back to normality, and while there look out for the rust-coloured trains that trundle over the top of the falls as they make their way north to Mumbai – a beautiful and unforgettable sight.

Near to the falls is the Sahakari spice farm, which offers tours through the jungle and around the plantation. Ideal for foodies, the farm’s friendly guide explains each spice’s properties and medicinal benefits, most of which are to cure indigestion. Also included in the price are a meal and a trip to the spice shop – which, like most gift shops, is overpriced. Instead, visit the markets of Margao or Panjim for everyday prices.

With far fewer cultural and historical sites than its neighbouring states, a visit to Old Goa is nevertheless a fascinating insight into the state’s colonial past. A lost city hidden in the middle of the jungle, Old Goa is a collection of abandoned, crumbling and impressive cathedrals and official buildings. What resonates most is that the solid, one-dimensional western familiarity of Old Goa’s past feels so far removed from new Goa’s present – a vibrant mix of Catholic faith, Portuguese architecture, westernised influences, Hindu temples and Indian traditional culture.

DON’T MISS

If travelling to Goa in March, don’t miss the Holi festival. Each village and town celebrates in their own way – be it with a dancing competition, a concert or just a gathering of multi-coloured people, all letting their hair down. Those who don’t really like rowdy crowds, or feel uncomfortable about strangers covering their faces with coloured powder, should avoid Holi. Those who want to experience all the colour of India in one day and don’t mind getting a bit messy should get stuck in. The cows roaming the streets often seem the worst off anyway.

DEFINITELY AVOID

It is worth checking out what elections and strikes are scheduled before you travel, in order to time your trip accordingly. During elections, the government declares Goa a dry state for three or four days at a time. Strict curfews are also imposed in the run-up to the election, with restaurants and bars having to close at 10pm. If a strike is called, nobody works, which can prove difficult when trying to get around. Taxis, tourist vehicles and boats are not exceptions.

GETTING AROUND

One of India’s smallest states, Goa is relatively easy to get around. The Kolkan Railway (KR) links most of the main towns and tourist attractions, but it is just as easy to hop into one of the white taxis or tourist vehicles, or hail a tuk tuk, both of which are inexpensive. If you are beach-hopping, mopeds are quick and easy, but unconfident motorists should avoid the busier towns.

GETTING THERE

Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com) flies from London Heathrow to Goa, via Mumbai, with fares starting from £400 return.