Travel: The Glencoe Hotel, Glencoe Village

All the major tour bus companies frequent its scenic lay-bys, all the guide books have it down as a must-see and, with its intoxicating mix of dramatic history and geomorphic grandeur, it isn’t difficult to see why.

For some reason, though, the accommodation options in the area are relatively limited. At least they were until a couple of years ago. Situated in the middle of Glencoe village, overlooking the mighty grey (and occasionally blue) expanse of Loch Leven, it’s fair to say the Glencoe Hotel hasn’t always lived up to its five-star surroundings. However, after a period of lying dormant, it's now owned by Crerar Hotels and managed by Nigel Bird – the man responsible for the successful refit of the nearby Crianlarich Hotel. Things are looking up. n

WINING AND DINING? In terms of location and orientation, the restaurant at the Glencoe Hotel is hard to beat. Get yourself a window seat and soak up the views across Loch Leven towards St Munda’s Isle, burial ground of the ill-starred MacDonalds of Glencoe, and the Morvern Hills beyond. Food-wise, the philosophy seems to be substance over style, and that’s no bad thing. If you like good, honest fare and plenty of it, you’ll feel right at home here. The house speciality, the Thai green curry, has enough kick to make your scalp prickle, and they’re even generous with the scallops. Those used to fine dining might wonder where all the garnish has gone, but they should go elsewhere for their fripperies. Having said that, the generously proportioned full Scottish breakfast is slightly spoiled by the fact that all the sauces are served in individual foil packets. Not only are they a landfill-clogging eco-disaster, these little tubes of ketchup and brown sauce also make for an unpleasantly sticky dining experience – more greasy spoon than Brigadoon.

BUDGET OR BOUTIQUE?

Budget verging on an absolute bargain. A two-night break between now and June can cost you as little as £89 per person for bed and breakfast, with entry to the Glencoe Folk Museum thrown in for free. And in winter, skiers and snowboarders can avail themselves of a free shuttle bus service from the hotel to nearby Glencoe Mountain Resort – a great way to save yourself the hassle of winter driving after a hard day on the hill, and also a good way to get to know your fellow guests and snowsports enthusiasts.

WORTH GETTING OUT OF BED FOR? You’re kidding, right? You’re in Glencoe. Some of the best hiking and climbing in Europe is right on your doorstep, Scotland’s oldest ski resort is just a short drive away, and if the weather isn’t playing ball, Kinlochleven’s gigantic indoor ice-climbing wall, the Ice Factor, is also nearby.

LITTLE EXTRAS?

The service is as friendly as you’ll find anywhere – livewire front-of-house manager Mandy, in particular, could wring a smile from the most stony-faced guest. The bar is good and lively in the evenings too, and in case it isn’t you can always check out the world-famous Clachaig watering hole, just up the road.

GUESTBOOK COMMENTS?

It’s still a work in progress, but the Glencoe Hotel is definitely on the up, and things are moving along at a fair old pace too – with a new function suite currently in development in the grounds and more improvements in the pipeline. Book now while you still can (01855 811245, www.crerarhotels.com/ourhotels/glencoe_hotel).

ROGER COX