Travel: Escaping to marvellous Melville

Sitting in a car grumbling about the traffic gridlock on Sheriffhall roundabout one minute, marvelling at the majesty of Melville Castle the next. It’s true what they say, some castles really do have magical properties.

Taking a trip to a location on the periphery of the city where you live, work and spend way too much of your time can stir arguments about whether visiting somewhere so close to home can truly qualify as a “break”. But booking a stay at Melville Castle – now a 32-bedroom hotel – made us feel like we could have been happily holidaying hundreds of miles away rather than a hop, skip and jump from Edinburgh.

I’d been to Melville Castle in the past as a wedding guest and had fond, if rather faded, memories of the place. Returning to the grand pile, complete with turrets – easy to find from the Edinburgh bypass – swiftly refreshed my memories of what is a hidden, historic treasure. I say hidden because even by car, a long winding driveway flanked by woodland heightens the anticipation of what lies ahead. I say historic, because this used to be Mary, Queen of Scots’ old stomping ground.

Mary was by no means the only monarch to reside or spend quality time at the Melville estate in its rich history, but her connection can be palpably traced back to the 1560s. On one of her visits, her close companion David Rizzio planted a tree as a token of his love for her – a Spanish chestnut which survives near the stable block – while Mary herself responded by planting a row of trees along the drive which are also alive and swaying in the breeze today.

As history shows, both Mary and Rizzio met with grisly ends, but the Melville estate has evolved and flourished in those 450-plus years. The handsome castle that dominates the landscape today was not around in Mary’s day, it was subsequently designed by the renowned architect William Playfair in 1791. It had many ups and downs before it was painstakingly restored and revived by the Hay family, who continue to be responsible for its success and preservation to this day.

We were given the warmest of welcomes and shown to a comfortable and spacious room, framed by a four-poster bed, and gazing out at the tranquillity and beauty of the grounds, it was impossible to fathom that the chaos of the city bypass was anywhere near this haven.

The brasserie restaurant and cellar bar at Melville Castle had a pleasant, relaxed air about it, and after ordering from an impressively varied menu we were served meals rich in local produce. We found the staff attentive, friendly and the all-round cheery atmosphere made it an easy place to unwind. While the hotel has a luxury feel to it, there is no unecessary snobbery, and guests are allowed to have fun and to be themselves. The owners have also succeeded in modernising certain aspects of the hotel without eroding any of its historic character.

Our room had all mod cons and offered a soothing view of the Midlothian countryside that begins where Edinburgh ends.

Adjacent to the castle, a large marquee pavilion provides an idyllic setting for any wedding or function, and the expansive grounds they sit in are perfect for a stroll. For the adventurous, the hotel also offers to facilitate pursuits such as clay pigeon shooting, golf, horse riding and falconry, but we didn’t have to spread our wings too far on this occasion.

Whether you are from Edinburgh or further afield, the castle is a wonderful base for local attractions such as Edinburgh Butterfly and Insect World, country walks and parks in the Dalkeith area, and the beautiful Rosslyn Chapel.

Try as I may, words don’t really do Melville Castle justice, but any picture of this king among castles certainly does.

• From Edinburgh City Bypass at Sheriffhall roundabout take the A7 towards Galashiels. At the next roundabout turn left onto Gilmerton Road (B6392 towards Jedburgh).The entrance gates to Melville Castle are 200 metres ahead on the right-hand side. Classic bedrooms range from between £129 and £159 per night B&B, but check website for offers; www.melvillecastle.com