Travel: Creggans Inn, Argyll

Aside from sponsoring the village shinty team, the Creggans joined villagers to compete in the Swamp Soccer World Championship, proudly reaching the semi-final stage.

When they're not up to their armpits in mud, the staff maintain the traditions for which Creggans has been noted during its long history. These days it is owned and run by former Lothians and Borders policeman Archie MacLellan and his wife Gill and the promise of fine food and wine is no idle boast as the chef has been awarded two AA rosettes.

While visitors generally head here for the tranquil setting, there is much to see and do along Argyll's "secret coast".

It is perfectly located to explore the area, so does it live up to its reputation?

Room service? We had a suite and the separate sitting room, with its cottage-style decor, which provided a home-from-home with added comfort.

There was a dining table and television, though it was rather old-fashioned and had limited channels.

The bedroom also included a portable for those who prefer to view without leaving their bed.

But we weren't there to watch television. The rooms had the perfect view, looking directly along the loch, and it was delightful to watch the changing colours and moods at different times of the day.

Wining and dining? Many visitors opt for the intimate dining area in and around the bar where there is a menu that would put many a rival to shame.

However, it did mean the restaurant was largely empty. That's a pity, as it is tastefully presented and the food was excellent. My grilled salmon fillet with soft herb and parmesan risotto and a herb sauce and my wife's sauteed halibut fillet with spinach, leak and pea veloute were cooked to perfection.

Between the main courses and the starters of duck and scallops we had veloute of butternut squash with truffle oil and, for dessert, a bitter chocolate teardrop with raspberry coulis. My first choice of wine wasn't available, but the cellar was plentiful and reasonably priced.

Budget or boutique? Definitely boutique. One night in a garden view double room with breakfast is 50 per person while a suite comes in at 90 each.

There are special discounts for longer stays but visitors choose Creggans for its intimacy and location. It manages to combine the comfort of a small hotel with the day-to-day business of a tavern.

Worth getting out of bed for?

This side of the loch is a bit of a secret, but if tranquility is your goal you can't beat it. We drove along the single-track lochside road to Tighnabruaich, enjoying some breathtaking views and virtually seeing no one.

Tighnabruaich is the place to buy contemporary Scottish art. Inveraray is 20 minutes away and home not only to one of the best castles in Scotland but also the tucked-away Stable Gallery which is well worth a visit.

There are five golf courses within a short drive and we played at Inveraray's nine-hole course for only 15 per person. Walkers have ample choices and the 150-acre Benmore Botanic Garden is on the road to Dunoon. The outdoor thrill-seeker may be tempted by Quadmania with its range of quad biking, archery and shooting.

Little extras? A range of home-cooked jams and other treats from the kitchen are available for sale, along with the comfortable dressing gowns which were half the price listed in the high street.

But a few added extras would have been welcome. A few chocolates left on the bed? Newspapers and magazines in the sitting room? Every little helps.

Guestbook comments? Intimate, homely atmosphere with excellent food and a good bar. Maybe think about moving the restaurant into the lounge and reserving the hall for functions. Great get-away location with plenty of things to do.

Creggans Inn, Strachur, Argyll (01369 860279, www.creggans-inn.co.uk)

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 19 December, 2010