Travel: Cook Islands

Making a distinct cheeping noise as he sucks air through his teeth, The Birdman is on a mission. “Here, Georgie, Georgie, Georgie-Boy,” he calls sweetly, adding to the series of chirruping sounds. “Where are you today?”

This unorthodox twitcher – real name George Mateariki – is searching for the Kakerori, a small russet-coloured bird that was, until very recently, listed as ‘critically endangered’and declared one of the ten rarest species in the world.

They were only able to survive because conservationists introduced them here to Atiu, one of the Cook Islands in the South Pacific, where there are no predators.

Aptly also known as Enuamanu, a phrase which means ‘the land of the birds’, Atiu is some 2000 miles from neighbouring New Zealand – 10,000 miles from Scotland.

Fortunately, before arriving on Atiu, I’ve had time to recover from my journey from Edinburgh by lazing around on another of the Cook Islands, the gorgeous paradise atoll of Aitutaki.

Having found fame recently by providing the setting for the reality show Shipwrecked, Aitutaki’s blue lagoon is home to coral reef, colourful fish and giant clams, which I see opening in the sunshine to reveal jewel blue and pink colours as I snorkel up above.

And even as I recline on the sun deck of my luxurious over-water bungalow at the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort and Spa, I can still hear the thousands of fish splashing beneath.

A trip on a snorkel boat also offers the opportunity to stroll on several of Aitutaki’s pristine palm-topped white sand islets with alluring names such as Honeymoon Island.

And there can be few better places to enjoy a sunset dinner than at the luxurious Pacific Resort, where beachside cocktails are served as the sky turns a magnificent shade of orange.

There is no doubt that I am smitten and so it is, therefore, with a heavy heart that I leave this idyll. However, as I board the tiny plane to Atiu, I can’t help but feel excited about the adventure to come.

“There he is,” declares Birdman George suddenly, pulling his truck to the side of the road and giving me a knowing grin. While I’m scared I’ll miss this sighting, as we approach, the unassuming bird, which is just 15cm across and weighs just 20 grams, doesn’t budge from its branch.

Unobtrusive this Kakerori bird may be, but there is little doubt of “Georgie-Boy’s” extra special credentials, having lived to the age of 15 – three years longer than expected.

There is no shortage of interesting fauna on Atiu, despite the island being just 20 miles across.

Another unusual bird that lives on the island is the bat-like Kopeka which resides 20 metres underground in a cave system. Atiu is the only place in the world these birds are found and, as I was to discover, getting to their nesting site is a tricky business.

Much of Atiu comprises a jagged and unstable fossilised coral limestone terrain called makatea which is covered in a thick blanket of dense jungle. And, while it is only a 30- minute walk to the mouth of the Anatakitaki Cave, where the Kopeka lives, it is a trek that requires a keen sense of concentration as the ground wobbles precariously underfoot.

Leading the way through the jungle is Englishman and guide Marshall Humphreys who is quick to correct the assumption that the Kopeka – or Atiu Swiftlet – is merely a ‘bat with feathers’. Unlike bats, which use an ultra-high frequency system similar to radar to navigate in darkness, he tells us that the Kopeka makes an audible sound and then listens out for the echo.

Around 600 of the tiny birds live here and, after venturing further underground, Marshall encourages me to turn off my head torch, plunging us into total darkness. Once the lights are out, a furious clicking sound begins as the Kopeka birds navigate the twists and turns between the three metre long stalagmites and stalactites within the caverns. They are constantly on the go, leaving the caves to catch insects, only resting once they return to the underground darkness.

Reluctantly, we leave the home of these fascinating creatures but, before venturing back up into the heat of the jungle above, an invitation to plunge into the cold water of a nearby candle-lit cave is too much to resist.

And then, before returning to our hilltop accommodation at Atiu Villas, we visit a local hostelry called a Tumunu for a very special refreshment indeed.

While the island is famous for its coffee – a visit to local lady Mata Arai’s plantation and kitchen for breakfast is a must – Atiu is infamous for the brew consumed at the jungle pubs dotted around the island.

Six of us – two thirds of the tourist population to wake up on Atiu on this day – are seated in a semi circle in the open air before being joined by Papa Sam who, as master of ceremonies, hands round this powerful fruit drink.

Dipping a coconut shell into a white plastic barrel, Papa Sam hands this powerful fruit beer to each of us in turn in an age-old ritual that keeps making its circuit until our guide Marshall returns to pick up his now giggling charges and return us to base and to a Polynesian feast.

Dinner is at a communal table and includes a serving of the versatile local spinach-like staple Taro. As we are treated to a show of traditional Polynesian music and dance performed by islanders of all ages, we visitors sit together and share our stories of discovery from the day while our host Roger Malcolm throws in anecdotes of island life.

Living on a quiet beauty spot among such a close knit community is something many of us can only dream of as we battle with daily commuter traffic and the hustle of the city. It’s not a problem that the 200-strong population of Atiu has.

As the sun sets, Roger focuses on the rare sight of some headlights slowly snaking their way up the hill towards the restaurant. “See that,” he says with a wink, “that’s what here, on Atiu, we call traffic!”

n For further information on what to do and where to stay in the Cook Islands, visit www.cookislands.travel

n Return flights to Rarotonga from Edinburgh, via Heathrow and Los Angeles, were arranged by www.roundtheworldexperts.co.uk. Prices start at around £1300.

n Air Rarotonga (www.airraro.com) offers chalet style accommodation in the midst of a tropical garden. Rates for a standard villa start at NZ$180 per night.

Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa is the only

n Cook Islands’ resort to be located on its own private island. Rates for a beachfront bungalow in August are NZ$600 per night.