Outdoors: Sutherland

In an attempt to understand the area, to get as close as possible to the land itself, I chose to walk across it," explains presenter and mountaineer, Cameron McNeish, author of The Sutherland Trail, a new book featuring photographs by film-maker Richard Else.

This travelogue outlines the adventures he and his wife Gina had in spring 2008 during a week-long traverse of the 77-mile trail from Lochinver to Tongue, which follows ancient pathways, stalkers' routes and hill tracks.

Those familiar with the sometimes dry tone of some hillwalking publications, will enjoy the refreshing style of this book. As well as being packed with historical and geographical facts, it's written in a colourful picaresque voice and includes stories about the folk that McNeish meets on his trip – such as local hairdresser turned oyster farmer, Angela Mackay, and Jan Mackenzie, one of Scotland's very few female shepherds.

You can also read about extra-special meals the author enjoyed along the route, such as fresh langoustine and haggis, washed down with local beer at the Kylesku Hotel, or oatcakes and cheese, eaten while McNeish dangled his feet into the water of Loch an Lethaid Bhuain.

There are even revelations about the occasional spat with Gina – usually when she's ready to pitch their tent and McNeish wants to press on ("She stomped off in high dudgeon," he writes, halfway through the book). You can also read his reminiscences of previous trips with the likes of former Runrig frontman, Donnie Munro, in Skye, or stories about other musical friends – some of whom once performed in the area where McNeish begins his trek.

"I've always enjoyed my sojourns in Lochinver but my young hillwalking friends Roddy Woomble and Gareth Russell, both members of the rock band Idlewild, once played a gig in the village hall and were horrified to see their audience was made up virtually exclusively of semi-drunk fishermen, all clad in yellow oilskins and clutching six-packs of Tennent's lager," writes McNeish, who recently presented a BBC2 documentary entitled Sutherland – The Empty Lands.

With so many stories and interesting observations, the book covers a lot more ground than its title suggests. It is, however, when describing the landscape of the area that McNeish really waxes lyrical.

"I've known the hills of Sutherland for many years and I've happily accepted the fact that its chameleon-like landscape has the ability to lift your spirits to soaring heights, or plunge them into total despair," he says. "Walk in towards Suilven on a dour, grey day when the midges and clegs feast on your bare flesh and you'll know what I mean by despair. But there are other times, more often than you'd dare believe, when this northern landscape, considered by many to be remote and harsh, boggy and battered by the elements, visually softens into a palette of the most delicate shades and hues."

Alongside the book's evocative descriptions are some wonderful photographs which capture the most dramatic vistas – such as Ben More Assynt, the highest mountain in Sutherland, or Ben Stack, seen from north of Scourie – both pictured in a region which also features caves, chambered cairns, waterfalls and the remains of ancient shielings.

However, those who want to use the book as a hillwalking reference guide rather than leaving it out on display on the coffee table needn't worry that they're not being catered for.

"Richard and I have been very aware that many readers will want to use this book to follow the actual route of the Sutherland Trail. That is why we've included trail information with each chapter detailing distances, maps, terrain and the actual step-by-step route. However, we also felt it was important that we included information about some of the hills that are accessible from the trail," explains McNeish.

"Canisp, Ben More Assynt and Conival, Quinag, Ben Stack, Arkle, Meall Horn, Ben Hope and others are all adjacent to the trail, so where possible I've written of my own experience of these hills taken from visits over a number of years."

If this book encourages you to visit the Sutherland Trail, or to tackle some of the aforementioned Munros and Corbetts, you may soon have your own adventure to reminisce over. Follow in McNeish's footsteps and you could end up just as smitten. As he explains: "There is no doubt that this region of northern Scotland has an uncompromising beauty, a glorious and lavish splendour that has the ability to reduce you to tears".

The Sutherland Trail: A Journey Through North-west Scotland by Cameron McNeish and Richard Else, 20, Mountain MediaExplore the wild beauty of Sutherland, with the help of one of Scotland's most experienced walkers

• This article first appeared in The Scotsman, 16 January, 2010