Hotel review: Parklands Hotel, Perth

IT'S 800 years since Perth was granted Royal Burgh status and Scotland's ancient capital is looking good for its age. It's also tasting rather fine, thanks to the culinary expertise of local chef Graeme Pallister, whose work in the Parklands Hotel and 63 Tay Street restaurant is receiving such acclaim he's becoming almost weighed down with awards.

Pallister trained at the nearby Kinloch House Hotel in the mid-1990s and went on to work at Longueville Manor in Jersey and The Angel in Sussex, before returning to Perthshire to hone his skills at Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles. Now firmly established as one of the best young chefs in the country, he won two AA rosettes for his work at Parklands. Although still involved in the hotel, his focus since 2007 has been on developing 63 Tay Street as his signature restaurant and it has just been short-listed in the 2011 Scottish Restaurant of the Year awards. It is also one of only 13 restaurants in Scotland to be awarded the Gold standard by EatScotland, the food and drink arm of VisitScotland.

Wining and dining? Schoolchildren in Perth found truffles recently and it's a discovery that was warmly welcomed by the hotel and restaurant, whose commitment to locally sourced produce is unstinting. Indeed, one dish on the menu features truffle butter and shaved reggiano parmigiano cheese in a rather special angel hair pasta and mushrooms dish. Pallister describes the food as "modern Scottish" and local suppliers are key to his success. Highland venison and Dunkeld smoked salmon loom large on the menu, and while it may be a bit further north, it's worth straying out of Perthshire to sample the tasty starter of grilled Stornoway black pudding with potato scone and fried egg.

Budget or boutique? The Parklands shies away from the term boutique hotel, preferring instead to describe itself as family-owned but not family-run. It's classy but friendly with two restaurants to choose from. The Acanthus offers fine dining on a menu that combines traditional and new dishes. The more informal No 1 The Bank is a bistro with a seasonally based menu, at the front of the hotel overlooking its gardens.

Room service? Luxuriate in the opulence of the king-sized beds. Plump up your pillows, lie back and enjoy flatscreen satellite TV. There's also wi-fi in the rooms and an iPod docking station for the soundtrack to your weekend away. For the ultimate in luxury, one room offers a spa bath. The view to the front of the hotel is glorious, with South Inch Park in the foreground giving way to Kinnoull Hill and the rolling Perthshire countryside.

Worth getting out of bed for? In terms of spectacular scenery it's hard to beat Perthshire. Whether it's a stroll along the banks of the Tay or a trip to Glamis Castle or Scone Palace, the surrounding vista will take your breath away, whatever the season. The city itself offers an impressive selection of independent specialist shops and the hot news for bargain-hunting fashion fans is that a Primark has just opened. Culture vultures will appreciate the imaginative Perth Museum and Art Gallery which recently staged a Warhol exhibition and currently houses a Trailblazers collection featuring female artists from the 19th century to the present day.

Little extras? The commitment to wholesome Scottish fare doesn't end on the dinner plate. As you would expect from Perthshire restaurants, there is a bountiful supply of local malts. More intriguing are the Scottish gin and vodka, while the wines are chosen from a list sourced mainly from an independent Scottish supplier.

Guestbook comments? Secluded but central, the Parklands is an ideal base from which to explore Perth and the surrounding countryside. Winter rates when booked in advance are 72.50 per person per night for dinner, bed and breakfast based on two people sharing. Tel: [phone] or visit www.theparklandshotel.com. To book a table at 63 Tay Street call 01738 441451 or visit www.63taystreet.com.