Do Not Disturb: The Anchor, Johnshaven, Aberdeenshire

Look no further for the good life than this hostelry, whose fine food, good beers and friendly atmosphere make it a persuasive ambassador for this stretch of the North East coast.
A gem: The Anchor at Johnshaven

.A gem: The Anchor at Johnshaven

.
A gem: The Anchor at Johnshaven .

A classic whitewashed hotel, The Anchor is nestled down near the harbour in the coastal village of Johnshaven where the air still smells pure and an old-fashioned quiet falls on the tangle of small streets and lanes.

The Anchor thrums away at the heart of it all and is to its regulars as bees are to honey.

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It is a place that does what it does incredibly well. As a pub, it’ll keep you in drinks and laughs and often live music. As a choice for an easy bar supper, you’ll find your classics a cut above the rest. As a destination for a special dinner, you’ll be thinking of your meal long after the final mouthful has been consumed, such is the experience.

If you sleep here, you’ll stay in the main hotel building or in a scattering of cottages around the village. And you will always sleep better next to the sea.

Room service

We stayed in Anchor Cottage, tucked up a lane off the harbour. If you are seeking peace and quiet but within easy reach of a good pub, this an ideal hidey-hole. It oozes traditional cosiness yet feels fresh, light and clean. Upstairs is the large sunny bedroom, which has cute country chic and plenty of space. You’ll get a view of the sea down through the lane where you will probably watch the few remaining lobster fishermen pootling 
in and out of the small harbour.

Budget or boutique?

Neither adjective really applies. The ample living room is homely with a couple of nice touches of décor. The small kitchen has all the bits and bobs you’ll need to rustle up something tasty, and for a comfortable retreat in a coastal location, The Anchor offers incredibly good value.

Wining and dining

Chef-owner Gary Thomson does bold, assured, flavourful food with a light touch when required; the menu has set a new standard around these parts.

The intimate white dining room is where the à la carte menu serves up the best of Aberdeeshire’s fine larder. Treats of the field and the sea can be found in rich abundance here and there is perhaps no better expression of this at The Anchor than the surf and turf– here a delicate offering of fillet steak topped with lobster tail and prawns and bound together by the lightest of garlic butter. A dream of texture and taste, this is one special offering.

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Seafood lovers will adore the Italian stew –gutsy with a nip of chilli – and the seafood risotto.

Take your food in the bar and you won’t miss out on quality from the kitchen. Burgers are perfectly seasoned and the Thai curry is laden with layer upon layer of sweet spice and freshness. Good wine is also available by the glass here. Not many places around here can say that.

Worth getting out of bed for

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There are big skies and long walks to enjoy, but you’ll probably want to start with a small exploration of the village. The old lifeboat shed has been converted into a heritage centre which pins down Johnshaven’s rich maritime history. The Ship, the other local pub, will give you another taste of village life.

North of here, around an hour’s walk along the coast, you’ll find the village of Gourdon that is home to a busy harbour, the Harbour Bar, the Maggie Law Maritime Museum and Quayside chippie – another true taste of the North East.

Stonehaven is worth a visit for its harbour-side charms. Dunnottar Castle, one of the most photogenic piles in Scotland, sits on the edge of the town. From The Anchor, take a bus at the front door right to the ruin.

The beach and nature reserve at St Cyrus, around four miles away, are among the country’s finest. There you can happily amble an afternoon away.

Little extras

Stay in one of the cottages and you can have your food made up at The Anchor, and brought “home” to your little bolthole.

Guestbook comments

A gem of a hotel on a fine stretch of the North East coast which serves up local food that both delights and surprises.

Alison Campsie

Rooms from £60, including breakfast. Cottages from £60, without breakfast. Subject to change.

The Anchor, New Road, Johnshaven, Aberdeenshire (01561 362288, www.anchorhoteljohnshaven.com)