City Guide: London for the family

LEAVING your partner is one way to start a short break with your family, but not one I would recommend. To explain, Graham, my partner and father of our daughters Eve and Hope, made a last-minute purchase at the newsagent but failed to get on the train before the doors closed. Consider that a hard lesson learned.

(Always arrive promptly for your train and don’t linger perusing news stands.) We were fortunate enough to be travelling first class with East Coast trains so they efficiently bundled him on to the next available train, half an hour behind us and with his tail firmly between his legs. Despite the stressful start of the journey to London, the gals and I managed to make the most of it, sitting back and relaxing, enjoying the complimentary refreshments as well as the stunning views, with plenty of time to plot revenge on my errant other half.

Back in the dim and distant past we both used to live and work in the big smoke. That was where we hooked up and the rest, as they say, is history. Another bonus of working long hours in the newspaper game was an intimate knowledge of central London. So we are hoping to introduce our two young girls to a small corner of the capital: Knightsbridge to South Kensington. We will delay a tour of Soho drinking establishments for the time being. The London transport system is great for families as under-tens are able to travel for free. With only one straightforward journey on the Piccadilly Line, with no scary changes, we step out of the tube system in the heart of Knightsbridge. Turn right and we could shop at Harvey Nichols, or walk on a bit further to explore the 350 lush acres of Hyde Park. We could hire boats to row in the Serpentine or swim in the lido.

However, on this occasion we go left, perusing the window displays en route to our London abode. This provides sensory overload for the two girls, who are open-mouthed all the way. Harrods’ endless frontage lights up their eyes like jewels; a jet ski, stunning evening wear fit for a princess. A display of sparkling glitter life-sized panthers in the Mulberry window which amuses the girls and allows a brief glimpse of handbag heaven for me signals the end of our window shopping. We have reached the quiet cul de sac of Beaufort Gardens and Beaufort House, a traditional Regency townhouse, offering five-star luxury serviced apartments, a decadent but practical option for families.

A warm welcome is always guaranteed and manager Juan Garcia’s team are well used to the high standards of demanding clientele. Our palace/apartment, has three bedrooms, bathrooms galore, a dining room, well-equipped kitchen and a elegantly peaceful lounge, adding up to much more than our family’s wants. As the girls rush off to bag their rooms and check out the apartment’s hi-tech gizmos and Molton Brown potions, I find my favourite view out of the kitchen window. Harrods’ roof dome is just visible over the rooftops, lit up like a twinkling Christmas bauble. The apartments have been recently refurbished, making for very salubrious surroundings, but offer the flexibility you need with children. It is very hard to pull ourselves away to visit some of the sights.

Education and culture are in abundance at the V&A, and the grandeur and over-the-top architecture of the Natural History Museum is also on our list. Both are within striking distance. However, it is the Science Museum which supplies the girls with their wow factor. They love the stunning building and the blue neon-lit interior which houses the Who am I? exhibition, complete with funky interactive displays. All too soon it’s closing time and not wanting to spend a night locked in the museum, although it does do sleep-overs, we head for our dinner reservation.

Carluccio’s is a stylish restaurant, a contemporary deli eatery, a place to meet, eat and be seen. I fell in love with the gorgeous Buon Appetito posters by illustrator by Adrian Johnson which hang from the ceiling and set the atmosphere. The staff are faultlessly efficient, and family friendly, so nothing fazes them. Hope complains it’s too noisy and promptly falls asleep; it has been a tiring day. Starters of Italian breads with balsamic vinegar stave off hunger pangs while we wait for our food. Eve declares them delicious, as are her tuna fishcakes and green salad, one of the specials of the day. I plump for mozzarella salad with rocket, which doesn’t disappoint, and Graham has wonderful calamari. They have a very reasonable children’s menu so we order Hope some spaghetti in a tomato sauce in case she wakes up hungry. My main of ricotta and spinach ravioli is in a light buttery sauce which I can still taste in my dreams, while Graham’s pork escalope wrapped in Parma ham was tender, moist and delicious. Hope wakes up and is revived first by pudding, her favourite, chocolate ice-cream, then wolfs down the spaghetti, much to the waitress’s great amusement.

Back at Beaufort House we borrow a DVD, kick off our shoes and relax in the apartment.

We were all sad to leave London at the end of the weekend. I guess we need to return and tackle another square of our old patch.

THE FACTS

Cat and family travelled from Edinburgh to London by rail with East Coast Trains; advance return fares, booked online, start at £33 standard class or £95 first class. Book via www.eastcoast.co.uk, tel: [phone] or visit any staffed station.

Beaufort House, 45 Beaufort Gardens, Knightsbridge, tel: [phone], www.beauforthouse.co.uk

A three-bedroomed standard apartment costs £535 per night plus VAT in low season, until 9 June.

www.carluccios.com/restaurants/south-kensington