IT'S IMPOSSIBLE. That's what many people say about matching wine with chocolate. I have tried endless combinations and found it all depends on the taster's preference for dry or sweet wines, rather than any classic combo.
Chocolate is a tricky match due to the way it coats the mouth. Because of this, it is usually best to choose sweeter styles. For milk chocolate, light fizz works well, but for dark, bitter chocolate the preference is towards red wines with a high lev
el of sweetness. These, I think, would match well with chocolate eggs.
BANYULS
From France's most southerly appellation, this Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) is a lightly fortified red from Grenache Noir grapes (also Carignan, Cinsault and Syrah) grown on terraces above the seaside village of Banyuls-sur-Mer. The heat here is intense, so grapes over-ripen. Two main styles are similar to port; "rimage" is bottled earlier to retain fruit like a ruby, while the oxidative "rancio" is oak-aged like a tawny. Rimage is the more successful chocolate partner.
Banyuls 2005, Parce Freres
(£12.99 50cl, Raeburn Fine Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-343 1159)
Fruit and freshness emphasised; deep crimson, stewed damson aromas, intense black cherry fruit palate, sweet, velvety texture, luscious soft tannins – the French often drink this as an aperitif. 16.5/20
RECIOTO
A bittersweet, smooth, deep-coloured red, this is the sweetest style of Valpolicella from Veneto, made with the region's classic red grapes: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. By being both red and sweet, Recioto baffles people – they are unsure when to drink it. It can often be much more luscious and attractive than its better-known, drier and higher-alcohol cousin, Amarone.
Recioto della Valpolicella Fiorato 2004 Tommasi
(£13.99 hf bt, Raeburn Fine Wines)
Deliciously smooth, super-ripe cherries, a great alternative to ruby port. 16/20
MAURY
In the shadow of the Cathar stronghold of Queribus the soil is black schist, as dark as coal. These are more rustic and earthier than Banyuls, but as the area is less well known, Maury can be better value.
Maury Vendange Tardive 2002 Domaine Pouderoux
(£9.99 50cl, Waitrose)
Modern Maury from late-picked Grenache; starts well with gutsy, mulberry fruits and firmer tannins to finish. 14.5/20
RIVESALTES
Another Roussillon classic. But beware, this appellation represents half of the VDNs in France. There is, luckily, still a treasure trove of aged Rivesaltes, where the warm brick-red glow fades to orange tawny and chocolate/cherry-liqueur notes, mature to succulent sweet caramel.
Rivesaltes 1959 Domaine la Collas
(£29, The Wine Society, 01438 740222)
Now almost Madeira-like, with a similar alcohol; sweet cherry, toffee and caramel notes; nectar for matching with a chocolate/toffee fudge dessert. 17.5/20
SWEET TANNAT
The Tannat grape of Madiran in south-west France (and Uruguay) contains more procyanidins in its large pips and thick skins, which is said to prevent dementia. Usually made as a table wine, this is an extraordinary, sweet fortified red with 17 per cent alcohol.
Maydie Tannat 2004 Chateau d'Aydie
(£10.95 50cl, The Wine Society)
Dense sweetness, gutsy, full, weighty sweet red. 15.5/20
MAVRODAPHNE OF PATRAS
One of four wines from Patras in the Peloponnese. Mavrodaphne grapes are grown in vineyards overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, where searing heat creates super-ripeness, resulting in a rich, sweet red liqueur. Its velvet smoothness and light, sweet oak fruits are similar to Recioto, with more rancio raisiny character.
Mavrodaphne of Patras NV Kourtakis
(£3.36, Tesco online)
Rich, raisiny, luscious sweetness, dried apricots, figs and muscovado sugar. 14.5/20
FRAMBOISE
Made from three varieties of raspberry grown in Washington State, it's a fortified "wine" made by Bonny Doon winery in Santa Cruz. A great match with bitter chocolate torte.
Vin de Framboise NV Bonny Doon
(£11.99 hf bt, Sideways Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-668 4207)
Deep ruby, very sweet raspberry aromas, unctuously sweet, with fresh acidity. 15.5/20
THE BEST DEALS THIS WEEKENDWhite
VINA SOL 2006 TORRES
(£3.99, reduced from £4.99, Co-op until 30 March)
Lemony grassy with zippy acidity, fresh light tropical fruit notes from Spain's Penedes region.
Red
ZACA MESA 'Z CUVéE' 2004
(£17, Sideways Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-668 4207)
Californian Chateauneuf lookalike from Santa Ynez Valley: peppery, smooth, with weighty alcohol; delicious with lamb.
Fizz
TEMPUS TWO MOSCATO
(£7.99, Tesco)
The emphasis is on lightness, fruits, mousse and alcohol. A delicious off-dry fizz from the Hunter Valley in Australia.
The full article contains 761 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
