BERNARD Hine flares his nostrils as he sinks his nose into a glass of toffee-coloured cognac. "Rich," sighs the Frenchman. "1983 was a warm year and this has plenty of body. There is a strong gingerbread character but also a honeyed flavour on the nose." Drawing in a large breath he smiles, exclaiming: "Figs; with a notable citrus feel on the palate and a pleasing sweet sensation on the tongue."
We are in The Square, one of Mayfair's uber-smart eateries favoured by chief executives and captains of industry, where Hine, complete with sensational white moustache and faultless English, is guiding us through six vintages of cognacs. Apricots, ja
smine, violets and summer flowers are just some of the more outrageous flavour descriptions we come up with.
As with wine, there is actually a specific technique to tasting cognac. By holding the glass at a 45-degree angle and sniffing half way up, one can detect the lighter, more subtle flavours such as citrus and floral notes. Towards the bottom of the glass are heavier flavours such as sweetness, dried fruit and wood. Surprisingly, it works.
At its best, cognac is a fabulously complex drink offering a range of flavours from coconut through to dry leather. But we disagree. Hine is adamant it is the perfect digestif as it kills the fat from the meal and doesn't make one sleepy. My argument, and I have to admit at this juncture I'm swimming dangerously against convention, is that its acidity lends itself to being served as an aperitif as it naturally stimulates the appetite. Moreover, its complexities are best appreciated while the tastebuds are fresh. I'm not suggesting we start the "cognac as an aperitif campaign" just yet but on this occasion I would welcome a little feedback (
wlyons@scotlandonsunday.com).
Cognac itself begins life in the town it takes its name from on the banks of the Charente river, about 200 miles south-west of Paris. Rumour has it the air is thick with the scent of evaporating spirit ageing in the charred white oak casks. Like the whisky boys, the locals talk of the angels' share.
There are six different wine districts that surround Cognac, with 235,000 acres of vineyards producing clear white wines high in acidity that are considered suitable for distilling into brandy. The main grape variety is ugni blanc blended with a little colombard and folle blanche. The chalky soils of Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne produce what many consider to be the best brandies, while the Borderies are nuttier leading down to the darker soils of Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaire.
Thomas Hine, from Dorset, was travelling through France during the Revolution when he was imprisoned under suspicion of being a spy. On his release he married a local whose father happened to own a cognac company. Bernard is Hine's great-great-great-grandson.
As with whisky, cognac starts life as a colourless liquid but takes its character from the maturation process. What is fascinating is that the Hine cognacs matured in the deep cellars near Bristol take on a different character from those matured in Jarnac, offering a lighter, fruity and more delicate character as opposed to the deeper, more powerful, complex personality of those in France.
Hine 'H' Petite Champagne Cognac, £23.95A staple in the drinks cabinet, this is a blend of more than 15 Petite Champagne cognacs, all
of them aged four years and older. It has a delightfully floral character with hints of jasmine. Superbly delicate.
Hine 1981 early-landed, price on applicationThis is a tight, lean, taut cognac with notes of apricot and crystallised fruit. It is characterised by a lightness but on the palate there is a savoury mushroom character. The nature of the cognac has not been hidden behind the wood.
Hine 1978 early-landed, price on applicationVery floral with a nose that explodes with summer flowers including violets, elderflower and jasmine. On the palate it is delightfully soft with a velvety character that stays on the tongue. Quite superb.
STOCKISTS Royal Mile Whiskies (0131 622 6255, www.royalmilewhiskies.com); Tanners, Shrewsbury (01743 234455, www.tanners-wines.co.uk); Berry Brothers & Rudd (0870 900 4300, www.bbr.com).
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Pinot Noir La Grille 2006 VDQS St Pourcain £5.99 each, or buy two bottles and save £2, from www.majestic.co.uk
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