Wine: Exports are key to Turkey's ancient wine industry

It seems strange that the place where man probably took his first sip of wine is now one of the least known wine countries.

Even though Turkey has the world's fourth largest vineyard area today, you won't find its wines in UK supermarkets or wine merchants – yet. "Internet specialists like www.tasteturkey.com are flying the flag," says Taner Ogutoglu of Wines of Turkey, a generic body recently formed by ten Turkish producers. "Production has increased 330 per cent since 1990. With more foreigners becoming interested, exports will improve."

There are huge limitations on the industry. The government frowns on alcohol, so is unsympathetic to calls to reduce taxes that are four times as high as in the EU. With most of the population Muslim, consumption per capita is 1 litre per year, compared to France's 65. Turkey needs to export to survive.

The most exciting area is in Thrace and Marmara, near Istanbul. In the warm Mediterranean climate boutique wineries such as Sarafin are showing impressive form. Here, and down the Aegean coast around Izmir, international grapes semillon, riesling, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are thriving.

Native Middle Eastern grapes such as white creamy narince, plummy red bogazkere and cherry red kalecik karasi are found in continental Anatolia and south-east towards Kayseri, where summers are hot and winters bitter.

The whites are better than the reds, and have improved beyond recognition since a decade ago, thanks to stainless steel tanks and cool fermentation.

When it comes to Turkish reds, the name everyone remembers is bargain brand Buzbag. But the reds are mixed. Most tend to be very big and powerful. The best are luscious in flavour, tasting like a mix between wines from Greece and Australia. Shiraz and native kalecik karasi seem to be doing best.

I found alcohol levels either too high or unbalanced to taste; some wines were hard work to drink with a finish too coarse or too short in flavour. The two wineries that most impressed me were Kavaklidere, one of the largest private wineries, and Sarafin, the smallest. American winemaker Daniel O'Donnell working at Kayra is also making an impressive Anatolian shiraz.

Taste Test

White

CANKAYA 2007 Kavaklidere

(£5.99)

Anatolia's best-selling white is made from a four-grape blend of indigenous types: Turkey's freshest, crispest white, it has citrus/celery aromas and robust weighty fruit. 15/20

VILLA DOLUCA 2006

(£5.99)

Sultanina from the Aegean and semillon from Thrace make this lightly fruity, rather neutral blend. 11/20

2006 Sarafin

(£10.19)

This is a chardonnay from Turkey's first boutique winery; very buttery, very oaked, though slightly unsubtle, it is an incredible effort considering its origin. With its weight of fruit, it is similar
to an oaked Aussie chardonnay. 13/20

Rosé

KAYRA KALECIK KARASI

(£6.39)

Redcurrant/liquorice aromas, very crisp, quite lean, dry, short on the finish – shows potential. 12/20

Red

VILLA DOLUCA 2006

(£5.99)

Cinsault and karasakiz from Marmara, with bogazkere from eastern Anatolia; a warm, herby Côtes du Rhone style; short finish. 12/20

BUZBAG RESERVE

(£12.99)

From one of Turkey's oldest wine regions: incredibly spicy, exotically flavoured; finish is too dry and coarse. 13/20

ANCYRA 2006

(£8.49)

Rich cherry flavoured, spicy, softly tannic from Middle eastern grape, kalecik karasi; shows good potential. 14.5/20

KAYRA IMPERIAL SHIRAZ 2005

(£18.99)

Gutsy powerful shiraz, dense velvety fruits with vanilla, caramel and toasty undertones; only 18 barrels made by Daniel O'Donnell. 15/20

All the above wines are available from Taste Turkey, tel: [phone], www.tasteturkey.com

The best deals this weekend

White

JACKSON ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006

(£8.49, reduced from £10.19, until 29 July, Somerfield)

Succulent zesty Kiwi from one of Marlborough's best wineries.

Red

GLENELLY HILL 2004

(£14.99, SA Wines,

0845 456 2365)

Chateau Pichon Lalande's owner makes this opulent velvety shiraz/cabernet/merlot blend in South Africa.

Rose

ORGANIC Rosé 2007 Domaine Grande Palliere

(£9.95, Nicolas)

Crisp grenache/cinsault/ syrah from France's first "bio-village", Correns in Var.