Wine: Don't stop me now

After years in the wine wilderness, cork is finally making a comeback, thanks to its natural, eco-friendly credentials

THE verdict was damning: "Corked," was my host's firm pronouncement. He had gone to great lengths to get his hands on a bottle of what we hoped would be a rather interesting 1978 northern Rhône, but for any collector who bought wine in the 1970s, cork taint is a very serious problem. "Ah, they're always corked," he sighed. "I would say at least two bottles per case." Looking at the ruined bottle, he finally exclaimed: "Those cork boys have got to do something about it."

Sadly, for those who are fond of the old closure, they didn't. For years, Portugal's cork farmers, responsible for half the world's cork production, failed to admit that some wine stopped with their corks was contaminated with TCA, the chemical compound 2,4,6-trichloroanisole, which gives wine that foul-smelling, mouldy character. No one knows just how many bottles were affected. Some particularly aggrieved New World wine producers argue that as many as one in ten were damaged. Five years ago the International Wine Challenge stated that, of the 12,000 bottles it opened for judging, around 4% suffered cork taint. The official line, of course, is much lower. Whatever the percentage, it was enough for screwcaps to make massive inroads into the market.

Since they were introduced in 2001, screwcaps now account for nearly a third of all wine sold in the UK, including half of Tesco's range. Personally, I find screwcaps extremely convenient and welcomed their arrival with open arms – even though I must have opened thousands of bottles of wine, I still haven't quite mastered the Waiter's Friend. I've wasted too many hours dancing around the kitchen struggling to release a stubborn cork – only for it to pop out with a ferociously unexpected jerk – to feel too much sympathy for the Portuguese.

But in some ways I can't help feeling that screwcaps are not the panacea they are cracked up to be. Firstly, I have actually cut myself opening a screwcap – it sounds impossible, I know, but I managed it. (For those interested, it was rather like a paper cut.) Secondly, and far more importantly, I have been wondering what to do with all my discarded tops. Cork has an attractive, natural character that lends itself to cluttering up the sideboard long after it has performed its function. Indeed, I know many people who collect corks, tossing the discarded stopper into a decorative basket by the fireside. It doesn't really work with screwcaps.

Which brings me to an interesting report commissioned by Oeneo Bouchage, one of the world's leading closure producers. The research, produced by the French agency Cairn Environment and using the patented Carbon Appraisal method, found that aluminium screwcaps have a far larger carbon footprint than corks. One winemaker who had seen the research said it was enough to convince him to move back to natural cork as it was far easier to recycle than aluminium. Indeed, the premium-grade cork used in the wine industry can be recycled to make tiles, soundproofing, insulation and sports equipment such as dart boards, fishing rods and cricket balls.

Thankfully, the cork industry has woken up to the fact that winemakers will not tolerate bad cork any more and have introduced various measures to improve the quality. In the interests of my growing aluminium mountain, I wish them well.

TOP OF THE STOPPERS

2005 Split Rock Dry Riesling, Nelson, New Zealand, 13.5%, £8.69

This little boutique winery is well worth seeking out for its stunning riesling. Intense, rich, with a powerful lime-orange character and a pleasing spicy finish.

2005 Valpolicella, Tedeschi, Piemonte, Italy, 12.5%, £7.50

With summer nearly upon us, it is time to pull out the valpolicella. This has delicious bitter-cherry, red fruit, and a clean, well-balanced finish.

2006 Blackburn & James Merlot, California, USA, 14%, £6.99

Ridiculously smooth. There is a creamy, attractive nose with dark cherries, blackberries and cassis. The palate is fuller and earthier, with a rich, dark, supple finish.

• Stockists: Laithwaites; Averys (0845 863 0995); Co-op