We all know that Hungary produces wine, but how many of us have bought a bottle recently? If you did, it's most likely to have been an inexpensive dry white, which is largely what is available in the UK.
Even Tesco, which has stores in the country itself, lists only two whites, both under a fiver. Many of the best Hungarian wines never leave the country – a heathly domestic market puts consumption at 31 litres per capita per annum, far exceeding our
own level.
What you find on UK shelves are Hungary's cool-climate whites from varieties such as chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio, which were mass-planted in the 1980s. The indigenous grape blends from Irsai Oliver, Keknyelu or Kiralyleanyka can often be even cheaper. Two-thirds of Hungary's 400,000 hectolitre wine production is white. In the communist era, regions such as Badacsony near Lake Balaton were not allowed to produce reds.
Traditionally, Hungarian dry whites were gold-tinged, spicy and fiery, to stand up to the rich, peppery cuisine. Today they are mainly tank-fermented, sold on price rather than character. The best dry whites come from the Tokaji region in the north-east, best known for its excellent sweet whites made from furmint and harslevelu.
Just west of Budapest, good value whites come from Akos Kamocsay's Hilltop winery. Head further west to Somlo for minerally furmint. On the sunny, sandy slopes beside the lake, Rhine riesling is at its best.
Hungary has struggled since the fall of communism, with a chronic lack of capital. But in the last decade its red wine vineyards have shown progress.
In Villany and Szekszard, winegrowers like Attila Gere and former sommelier Csaba Malatinsky are succeeding.
There are plenty of gutsy cabernet sauvignons and merlots, with pinot noir getting better. The most interesting local grape is kekfrankos, which was widely planted between 1960 and 1990. Austrian Weninger and Jozsef Luka are the names to watch.
The one red Hungarian everyone has heard of is Bulls Blood (also known as Bikavér), usually made from kekfrankos, kadarka, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot or portugieser. Most Bulls Blood is cheap, rustic and poor, but moves are afoot to upgrade quality. If you want to try decent Bikavér from reduced yields and later-picked grapes, head for quality winemakers like Gyorgy Lorincz, Tamas Pok or Vilmos Thummerer.
Taste Test
Toast of Budapest
White
HILLTOP PINOT GRIGIO 2007(£5.50, The Wine Society, 01438 741177,
www.thewine society.com)
Clean, fragrant, mildly spicy from the Aszar-Neszmely region's best winery. 14/20
DONATELLO PINOT GRIGIO 2007(£4.99, Sainsbury's)
A clean, crisp, lean quaffer from Dunatul region; this lacks character. 11/20
DOMAINE ST ORBAN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006(£6.15,
www.laithwaites.co.uk)
Grassy, green fruit; starts well with a juicy palate, but slightly bitter finish. 13.5/20
CHATEAU MEGYER MUSCAT BLANC(£9,
www.hungarian foodandwine.com)
Frenchman Jean Louis Laborde owns this estate; floral, minerally, fresh, dry Muscat with honeyed mid-palate. 15.5/20
Red
DOMAIN GABOR PINOT NOIR 2006(£6.65,
www.laithwaites.co.uk)
Not a bad effort with such a tricky grape: a quite vegetal aroma, soft, smooth palate, but finishes short. 13/20
ST ANDREA ALDAS BIKAVER(£13,
www.hungarianfoodandwine.com)
Remarkably elegant Bulls Blood with rich cherry fruits and luscious flavours; voted the best Bulls Blood in the Eger region. 15.5/20
HUNGARIAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON(£2.82, Asda)
Starts well with ripe blackberry aromas, but very thin on the palate. 8/20
DOMAIN ST ORBAN MERLOT 2006(£5.25, reduced from £6.29,
www.laithwaites.co.uk)
Plummy fruit aromas, initial good fruit, but lacks depth and length. 13.5/20
THE BEST HUNGARIAN WHITE DEALS THIS WEEKEND
EVA'S VINEYARD CHENIN BLANC/PINOT GRIGIO/ KIRALYLEANYKA 2007(£4.29, Waitrose)
Very fruity, juicy, clean, fresh, good value; named after Hilltop's winemaker, Eva Keresztury.
HILLTOP RIVERVIEW CHARDONNAY PINOT GRIGIO 2007(£3.99, Asda, Somerfield, Spar)
Creamy, rounded, mildly spicy, good value Hungarian quaffer from Aszar-Neszmely.
LAKE VELENCE GRUNER VELTLINER 2006(£4.84, reduced from £6.29 in August,
www.laithwaites.co.uk)
Great value on promotion; lightly spiced, crisp, based on this famous Austrian grape.
The full article contains 704 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
