Will Lyons Uncorked

THE World of Wine

Reisling experts call for detailed label descriptions

The International Riesling Foundation has proposed that every bottle of Riesling should carry a taste scale to help befuddled consumers ascertain the exact flavour of every bottle they purchase.

The move has come from America, where this versatile, light grape variety is the nation's fastest growing white wine. The home of Riesling is, of course, Germany, in particular the slopes of the Mosel and the Rhine, where it takes on a hauntingly complex character. The problem it has always had with the British consumer is that German wine labels are famously difficult to fathom. With their mock gothic labels, festooned with complex, indigenous vineyard categorisations, they often leave the professional, let alone the novice, confused.

The Riesling foundation wants to see every bottle display a graphic with the descriptors dry, off-dry, medium dry, medium sweet and sweet. But will this help?

Describing wine is a hopelessly complicated affair. During wine tastings most imbibers I come across are either too scared or feel they do not possess a sufficient vocabulary to proceed. Wine tasting is deeply subjective and one man's dry can be another man's sweet.

Hugh Johnson once told me he tries to use similes, often describing wines by their character as opposed to their flavours. This approach can work surprisingly well. Personally, I try to impart the flavours of the wine and the effect its character has on the drinker. Does it elicit responses such as 'superb' and 'delicious'? If it does, write them down - most people understand these basic adjectives. But perhaps the simplest descriptors are those laid out by Michael Broadbent in his seminal work, Winetasting. Broadbent likes to keep things simple. The wine is either fruity or soft, grapey or sweet, hard or tannic, clean, poor or vinegary, refreshing or watery. Perhaps in our desire to impress we have overlooked these basic concepts.

Getting round airport restrictions

Flying back to Edinburgh on Monday night I inevitably had my bottle of water confiscated at security. Quite how many fine and rare bottles of wine find themselves in the hands of airport officials is anyone's guess but judging from the numerous times I have seen unsuspecting travellers relieved of a special purchase I imagine it's a great many. But help is at hand. Glengoyne Distillery has come up with a novel idea with a miniature pack that gets round the restrictions. According to the distillery, the tiny 5cl bottles of its 10, 17 and 21-year-olds provide a "practical solution to certain luggage restrictions". It's on the shelf now for £15.99.

Promotions to look out for

The Co-operative begins its August promotions at the weekend. Here is a sneak preview. Spier, the South African winery, is reducing its merlot/cabernet and chardonnay blend down from £4.99 to £3.99.These wines are well worth a try. Meanwhile, Lockett Brothers in North Berwick (01620 890799) is running Ruggeri Prosecco Frizantte Spago £8.99 or two for £15.00. Don't forget Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006/0 Marlborough, New Zealand 20% off, from £9.99 down to £7.99 at Waitrose. Pick up a bottle if you are coming to the Festival.