ASK SOMEONE to name an Italian white wine and the answer will usually be Soave or Pinot Grigio. Ask them to name a northern Italian wine region and they might mention Veneto or Piedmont. Few people, though, have even heard of Italy's greatest white wine region, Friuli Venezia Giulia.
Tucked up in the far north-eastern corner, bordering Slovenia and Austria, this predominantly mountainous region is home to some of Italy's most exciting whites. They stand out for their depth, definition and sharply etched fruits, but many are snapp
ed up by eager locals or their Swiss and German customers. Few emerge over here.
Friuli has had a turbulent history, fought over by Romans, Byzantines, Habsburgs and Venetians in their turn. The result is a fascinating legacy of grapes, including Tocai Friuliano, Verduzzo and Ribolla Gialla.
The Germanic tradition of crisp, clean, fruity wines has been an important factor in Friuli's recent past, but the predominant influence today seems to come from France.
The area has many sub-regions to explore. The biggest is the high, gravelly plain called Grave del Friuli, best known for its bright, juicy reds from Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but also home to some increasingly good whites. For even greater whites, head further east towards Trieste, where in Collio (also known as Collio Goriziano) and Isonzo to the south, there are many passionate, innovative winemakers.
Further north, the climate becomes more alpine in Colli Orientali del Friuli, which is home to the biggest volume of fine whites. Livio Felluga, Girolamo Dorigo and Borgo del Tiglio are names to watch here.
The best of Friuli Sauvignon Blanc
TOBLAR SAUVIGNONAS 2006
(£10.95, Valvona & Crolla, Edinburgh, 0131-556 6066)
Floral, aromatic, green fruits, creamy palate, beautiful length – not as sickly as a New Zealand Sauvignon. This has a creamier fullness than you would find in the Loire. Stocks are limited, so hurry while they last. 16.5/20
MEROI SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006
(£16.25, Berry Bros & Rudd, London, 0207 396 9600)
Sharply etched lime notes, a very shrill acid backbone, too tart and austere to finish, an unusual Sauvignon from Colli Orientali. 14.5/20
Tocai Friuliano
TOCAI FRIULiANO 2006 DULINE
(£12.99, Raeburn Fine Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-343 1159)
Smells of almonds and walnuts with herby undertones; fresh, crisp acid, with a creamy, rounded palate – produced by a tiny family winery in Grave del Friuli. 15/20
TOCAI FRIULiANO 2006 SPECOGNA
(£10.95, Valvona & Crolla)
Herby, appley notes, firm acidity, clean, but a little short on finish – from a producer in hilly Orientali. 14.5/20
Pinot Grigio
PINOT GRIGIO 2006 LORENZON
(£6.75, The Wine Society, 01438 741177)
Light honeysuckle notes, peach flavours, very clean, a bit neutral, but good value. 14.5/20
GRIS-PINOT GRIGIO 2005 LIS NERIS
(£16.95, or £15.25 each per dozen, Berry Bros & Rudd)
Very floral, peachy, rich, succulent, captivating palate, immense, awesome length. A fascinating single vineyard blend of oaked and steel fermented wine. 17.5/20
PINOT GRIGIO 2006 SPECOGNA
(£12.95, Valvona & Crolla)
Coppery-toned, full, fleshy fruits, poised acidity, nicely balanced. 15.5/20
Chardonnay/Ribolla
SHARJS 2006 LIVIO FELLUGA
(£14.50, www.surf4wine.co.uk)
Interesting nutty, savoury blend with a touch of vanilla oak, made from 70 per cent unoaked Chardonnay and 30 per cent oaked Ribolla. 16/20
THE BEST FRENCH WINE DEALS THIS WEEKEND
WHITE APREMONT DE SAVOIE 2007 PIERRE BONIFACE DOMAINE DES ROCAILLES
(£5.99, down from £7.49, Waitrose until 27 April)
Thirst-quenching, crisp, dry, floral. Suits Sauvignon lovers.
WHITE LA GRAND OLIVETTE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006 LA BAUME
(£4.99, down from £6.99, Waitrose until 27 April)
Deliciously weighty, very fleshy fruit, southern Languedoc Sauvignon.
RED MINERVOIS 2004 DOMAINE DES GARENNES
(£8.99 a bottle in store or £6.74 each for six online, www.marksandspencer.com)
Herbal scented, cherry-flavoured chunky fruit.
The full article contains 649 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
