Cook's choice

THIS Sunday many of us will sit down to a traditional Easter feast of roast lamb. For years, pundits have reiterated the food-and-wine matching rules, telling us that such a sweet meat should always be served with Rioja or claret. It is true that when matching food and wine you need to try to balance weight, texture and tastes so that one does not overpower the other, but when it comes to lamb there are countless ways of actually preparing it.

If you roast a leg of lamb with rosemary and thyme, my preferred match is certainly Rioja, as the Tempranillo grape has a similar sweet mellowness. Grenache, the dominant grape in the southern Rhône blend, also works very well with its sweetness, leathery aromas and herby undertones. If you do choose claret, it should be a right bank St Emilion or Pomerol, where the softer Merlot grape is dominant, rather than the more tannic Cabernet Sauvignon.

If you put your lamb in a casserole with aubergines and olives, you need something with a little more bite and spiciness – a northern Rhône Syrah, or even an Australian Shiraz. For spicier tagine, head for an even more robust style with a good kick and chunkier character, such as an Italian Barbera or Portuguese Touriga Nacional.

RIOJA GRAN RESERVA 2000 Berberana

(£10.99, or £9.99 each for 2 bottles, Majestic Wine)

A surprise find among a raft of over-priced Gran Reservas. Berberana has never been my favourite producer but this Tempranillo hits the spot with its sweet, ripeness; a touch spicy, with a very elegant mouthfeel. 16/20

KANGARILLA ROAD SHIRAZ 2005

(£9.99, or £8.99 each for 2 bottles, Majestic Wine)

Mid-weight for an Australian Shiraz, this hails from the historic McLaren Vale, just south of Adelaide. Ripe, pure berried fruit flavours; pleasingly smooth and fleshy, with vanilla tones. Very sweet. 15/20

CAIRANNE 2003 Boutinot

(£10, WoodWinters, Bridge of Allan, 01786 834894)

Chateauneuf-du-Pape lovers take note. This little known Grenache/Syrah Côte du Rhône Villages is totally overshadowed by its famous neighbour, but it cuts the mustard on price. Herby, leathery, liquorice-toned scents; very succulent, fleshy, soft mouthfeel; a fantastic buy at £10. 16.5/20

BEAUNE 1ER CRU PERTUISOTS 2002 Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey

(£22.50, Berry Bros & Rudd, London, 0207 396 9600)

I have just discovered this excellent new Burgundian domaine. Devevey's rags-to-riches story just goes to prove that one man using exemplary farming methods and low yields can still make a name for himself in top French appellations. His style is very ripe and forward, as shown by this elegant, smooth, comely Premier Cru Pinot Noir with its vivacious red berry fruits. 17/20

ST JOSEPH OFFERUS 2000 J-L Chave

(£12.99, Raeburn Fine Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-343 1159)

Named after the man who first planted Syrah in the northern Rhône. Low yields, late picking (the chestnuts must fall first) and minimum handling are used by this micro-negociant (son of the famous Gerard Chave) to create characterful Syrah with compact fruits and smoky, minerally notes. 16/20

CHATEAU ST BRICE 1999

(£20.25, Corney & Barrow, London, 0207 265 2400)

The second label of Chateau Magdelaine, owned by the great winemaking Moueix family – it comes from younger vines planted on pied de côte slopes. A lovely mature Grand Cru St Emilion Merlot with sweet open palate and a fruitcake dense richness to match the sweetness of lamb. 17/20

CHATEAU SEGONZAC 2005

(£7.99, Waitrose)

For budget claret drinkers, this Cru Bourgeois from up-and-coming Bordeaux appellation, Premieres Côtes de Blaye, is very soft, vanilla-toned and lightly spicy. Merlot (80 per cent) is supported by Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec in the blend. Screwcapped for easy access. 15/20



DUAS QUINTAS 2005 Ramos Pinto

(£9.99, Peckhams, Glasgow and Edinburgh)

From the home of port, Ramos Pinto has blended two port quintas, Evramoira and Bons Ares, to create a very chunky, robust, firm table wine blend of three Portuguese grapes: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. Pass the lamb tagine. 15.5/20

BARBERA D'ALBA CAMPASS 2000 Cigliuti

(£16.95, Berry Bros & Rudd)

With sunnier sites, later picking and careful oak ageing, Piedmont's Barbera grape is coming into its own. Delicious morello cherry fruits, very spicy character, with a luscious velvet mouthfeel – an excellent Piedmontese red. 17.5/20

THE BEST DEALS THIS WEEK

White QUINCY 2006 Domaine de la Pierre qui danse

(£7.19, reduced from £8.99, Waitrose, 26 March to 27 April)

Sancerre-lovers will enjoy this lush, ripe, zappy Loire Sauvignon Blanc from Quincy.

Red PERIQUITA 2005 José Maria da Fonseca

(£3.99, reduced from £4.99, Waitrose, until 20 April)

Spicy, chunky fruit in this Portuguese three-grape blend: Castelao, Trincadeiro and Aragonez. Good value.

Red BERINGER CARNEROS PINOT NOIR 2000

(£14, buy one get one free, Sideways Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-668 4207)

Strawberry and cherry aromas, very smooth. Great value.