They called him "el loco de la colina", an Englishman who decamped to the undulating foothills of the Sierra Bermeja mountain range and saw wonder where others could see only wasteland.
Twenty years later, David Leader's vision has blossomed. Verdant fairways snake around the boondocks of Andalucia, while elevated tees afford views across the expanse of the Mediterranean towards the peaks of the Atlas mountains in northern Africa.
"He didn't tell his family where he was going or for what, he just turned up here and thought, 'I'm going to build a golf course'," recalls Darran Clarke, resident professional at Estepona Golf. "Of course, the Spanish thought he was an eccentric, but look at it now – he was right to build here."
The course, which lies halfway between Marbella and the Strait of Gibraltar, is this autumn celebrating the 20th anniversary of Leader's unlikely project. An editor and publisher who decamped to the Costa del Sol in 1989 with only a rudimentary grasp of the native tongue, he directed bulldozers around the contours of the scorched earth, and struck deals for second-hand golf buggies. His aim was to create a course which offered stiff competition and value for money.
Two decades on, as part of an early afternoon three ball, I realise the same principles apply. Estepona, set high above a town of the same name with pleasant beaches and blue clapboard townhouses, is a deceptively simple course, with particularly strong par threes. Having last swung a club in desperation as a teenager, it allowed for a welcome reintroduction to the sport.
Unlike many other courses in the Costas, Estepona is free from development lining its fairways and greens. It makes for grand views onto the azure sea, and crucially, prevents those prone to wayward drives from offering profuse apologies to startled timeshare owners following the sound of glass breaking.
In common with the very best holes, the par four 10th, Estepona's 247 yard signature, is a test of mettle. From an elevated tee, the green appears eminently reachable, especially in favourable wind conditions. Yet a sprawling lake to the right, along with two smaller water hazards, promises scant consolation for those who value bravery above accuracy.
Even for players with the power and resolve to take on the pin in search of an eagle, four bunkers framing each corner of the green lie in wait. My first attempt drifted right for a bath, before its successor landed safe, if extremely short.
Later, over tapas and a deserved beer or two in Estepona's recently refurbished clubhouse, Darran tells me of his plans to bring the course's fairways and tees up to the standard of the excellent greens.
It has not always been easy. In February, only a few weeks after he had become course manager, a small tornado uprooted scores of trees on the course. In the six months since then, however, Estepona has made remarkable progress. Darran's passion for the area and belief in good value – it is possible to play 18 holes, complete with buggy hire and breakfast, for just a55 – makes a refreshing change from the conceited air of exclusivity projected by the committees of distinctly average British golf clubs.
Another course, La Resina Golf & Country Club, exudes the same relaxed atmosphere as Estepona. Its nine-holes are popular with the many ex-pats who reside in the Costa del Sol. Its par threes are exquisitely designed, and offer a sterner challenge for beginners. Place a perfect shot, however, and the rewards are great. Sava Jovovic, the gregarious course manager, ensures a lively time can be had in the clubhouse and the course also has a golf academy, and caters for weddings, birthday parties, and banquets.
Atalaya Golf, too, is a favourite club for Brits. Featuring two 18-hole courses with broad fairways and long par fours, it is ideal for those in search of a leisurely, forgiving round. The morning I visit, a party from Forres seem happy with their scores, despite some obvious hangovers.
Such courses are highlights in the Costa del Sol. Of course, there are prestigious names such as Valderrama – a Ryder Cup venue – and San Roque, but the region excels as a home to hardy courses, where the casual tourist can play alongside the determined amateur.
Reaching out to such markets is crucial for the Costas. Having first come to prominence four decades ago, when the opening of the Pez Espada in Torremolinos ushered in stars like Frank Sinatra and Orson Welles, the region has endured a difficult time of late. All around, there are indications of how hard the recession has hit. Hillsides have become the burial grounds for the vast concrete skeletons of stalled apartment complexes, while luxurious six-bedroom villas which sold for a1.6m a year past are now on the market for a600,000.
Hotels in the region are savvy enough to realise they must now be pro-active. The AGH Estepona, for instance, a four-star resort near sandy Paraiso beach, is planning to cater for golfing groups, and has fostered impressive ties with several good quality courses west of Malaga.
After a day on the fairways, the 177-room hotel guarantees relaxation, not least in the shape of a gymnasium and spa. It provides Reiki and aromatherapy among a host of treatments, ensuring tired shoulders and legs are quickly revived.
The AGH's rooftop bar, with adjoining pool, is a particular highlight. It is an ambient space with views of the Med for those having a drink or, if they are lucky, a four-course dinner. The head chef, Sasha's skill is in creating fine balances of flavour. His plates on the night I visit include a masterful soup of king prawn and basil, and a main of lamb and beef tender loin, served with gratin potatoes.
There are other dining options at the AGH, including a hearty buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Those wishing to venture further afield need not travel far. Puerto Banus, a wealthy enclave with a fine selection of bars and restaurants, is only a five minute drive away.
The facts Estepona Golf, Arroyo Vaquer, Malaga (0952 937 605,
www.esteponagolf.com). Green fees start from a49 for nine holes.
La Resina Golf and Country Club, Guadalmina Alta, Marbella, Malaga (0952 885 313,
www.laresina.net). E-mail via website or phone for rates.
Atalaya Golf Club, Estepona, Malaga (0952 882 812,
www.atalaya-golf.com). Green fees from a42 for nine holes.
For more information on Valderrama, visit
www.valderrama.com This article was first published in The Scotsman on 24 October 2009