Visiting champagne houses in a recession is an enlightening experience. Of the ten houses we surveyed on our tour, we found almost every cellar sparkling with new stainless steel tanks, evidence of investment during the boom years. Yet everyone had a story to tell of falling sales and rising stock levels in the cellars of Epernay and Reims.
"There's no doubt champagne as a luxury item has been affected by the recession. The whole market is down 30 per cent," says Charles Philipponnat, who has seen a 24 per cent drop in the first quarter of 2009 of Champagne Philipponnat. Larger houses e
xperienced a much greater fall in sales.
"Co-operatives and big name brands focusing on volume supermarket sales have been most affected. If there are any deals, that's where they will come from," says Martin Gammon of Joseph Perrier.
It's also not surprising that the luxury £100 plus cuvées of Krug and Louis Roederer's Cristal – as well as houses such as Taittinger, historically strong on the American market – have seen sales fall. Yet the mood is buoyant, hoping for a rebound in sales soon. My own hope that champagne prices, currently too high, would come tumbling down has proved unfounded. Only Tesco and Wine Rack have half price promotions.
The good news is that more will focus on quality and get rid of the dross. I was impressed with 80 per cent of the 60 champagnes we tasted. Those showing most consistency were Gosset, Henri Giraud, Philipponnat and Pol Roger.
Of these four houses, the largest is Pol Roger, with 1.8 million bottles produced annually. It is one of few family-owned houses left and its standard non-vintage is my preferred house champagne.
The second of my star performers is Gosset (1.3 million bottles). It owns few vineyards (just 2.5 hectares) relying on 200 grower contracts.
"We have integrated more chardonnay into our blends to enhance freshness," says Patrick Ligeron of Gosset.
Another name well known in restaurant circles is Philipponnat (650,000 bottles). Its style is very distinctive, particularly the legendary 1522 cuvée and stylish Clos des Goisses.
Of all producers we visited, Henri Giraud (300,000 bottles) was the most outstanding, but their champagnes are not for the faint hearted. Where some champagne lovers prefer a fresher lighter touch (as the likes of Taittinger do so well), at Henri Giraud the style is deep, zesty, rich toasty Pinot Noir-dominant, deriving from a focus on late harvesting, low yields and use of oak. For lovers of "big" champagnes, Esprit de Giraud and Fut de Chene are a revelation.
n Rose Murray Brown organises escorted tours to wine regions worldwide. 2010 tours are to Rioja and Bordeaux. Contact, masterclass@rosemurraybrown.com or www.rosemurraybrown.com for more details.
taste test Fabulous fizzGOSSET GRAND RESERVE NV
(£35.99, Raeburn Fine Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-343 1159)
My favourite Gosset cuvée; light brioche notes, hazelnut flavours. 16.5/20
POL ROGER 'PURE' NV
(£29.17 each for six bottles, or £35 a bottle, The Wine Society, 01438 740222)
A new vivid, minerally, soft, silky-textured bone-dry cuvée, with no added sugary dosage. Ideal with sushi, oysters or clams. 16/20
HENRI GIRAUD ESPRIT DE GIRAUD NV
(£32, www.topselection. co.uk; www.thedrinkshop. com)
Vanilla, tobacco, white pepper and spice, very intense, fabulous full textured palate, long finish. 16.5/20
JOSEPH PERRIER BLANC DE BLANCS NV
(£32, Henderson Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-447 8580; Peter Green, Edinburgh, 0131-229 5925; JA Glass, Dysart, 01592 651850; Luvians, Cupar/St Andrews, 01334 654820/477752)
The best Blanc de Blancs on the market: beautifully precise palate, grapefruit pith, slightly toasty. 16.5/20
PHILIPPONNAT 1522 CUVEE VINTAGE 2002
(£46.51, Harvey Nichols, Edinburgh, 0131-524 8388; www.lescaves.co.uk)
Light gingerbread notes, incredibly rich, fudgy, long length. 17.5/20
CHARLES HEIDSIECK VINTAGE 1989
(£187, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com)
Star of the trip: incredibly deep, toasty, gingerbread and hazelnut flavoured. 19/20
HENRI GIRAUD 'FUT DE CHENE' VINTAGE 1999
(£87, reduced from £127.20, Berry Bros & Rudd,
Carmelised sugars, rich, incredibly intense, a very fine champagne. 18/20THE BEST champagne DEALS THIS WEEKENDTAITTINGER BRUT NV
(£22, reduced from £31.98, Asda during July)
White flowers, almond and citrus fruits; a good discount on an elegant chardonnay-dominant blend.
GOSSET BRUT EXCELLENCE NV
(£28.99, reduced from £32, Raeburn Fine Wines, Edinburgh, 0131-343 1159)
Focused citric fruits, fresh very creamy texture.
BOLLINGER ROSé NV
(£41.65, reduced from £59, Wine Rack until 8 August)
A muscular, toasty pink from the famous champagne house. Will suit those who like mouth-filling deep rosé.
The full article contains 789 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
