Wine: Sherry picking that will whet your appetite for the main event

Published on Friday 13 February 2009 17:50

KINGSLEY AMIS hated the word 'aperitif'. But, as the novelist noted in Everyday Drinking, his sublime anthology of writings about booze, we haven't yet come up with an English term to do its job.

Whether you like the word or not, an aperitif is nevertheless one of the most enjoyable drinks of the day. A good aperitif should stimulate the appetite, intrigue the tastebuds and leave the drinker wanting more. A bad aperitif overwhelms the palate, thickens the head with alcohol and leaves the tastebuds feeling as if they have just gone ten rounds with Mike Tyson.

In summer, choosing the right aperitif is a relatively easy affair: chilled champagne or sparkling wine does the job if it's a large gathering; ice-cold gin and tonic, Pimm's, punch or even a chilled glass of a light dry white wine such as sancerre will leave the imbiber ready for the main event.

The winter aperitif is more complicated. With low temperatures and snow storms, or even just a bitter wind and the threat of rain, the last thing you want on an empty stomach is an ice-cold liquid tasting of summer fruits. What most of us would prefer is something to warm us up. Whisky is good but can be quite powerful if you haven't already eaten. A light red wine such as a chinon from the Loire, a beaujolais or a lighter pinot noir can also suffice, but these must be served with some sort of food, however small a portion.

My preference is to serve sherry – and I don't mean a thimbleful of the sickly sweet brown stuff that you might use for cooking. I'm talking about the real thing, served in a large glass and accompanied by a small bowl of olives or salted almonds.

What appeals is sherry's dryness, the concentrated acidity that hits the midpoint of the tongue, creating juices that really do whet the appetite. Whether you choose a bone-dry manzanilla or a luxuriantly sweet Pedro Ximenez, sherry lends itself to the beginning (or even the end) of a meal.

I recently had dinner at Le Quartier Franais in the heart of South Africa's wine lands. We chose the restaurant's tasting menu, regarded across the country as a match for Heston Blumenthal's pioneering menu at the Fat Duck. Inevitably, every course was served with a different wine, but to my mind it was the two courses that were paired with sherry that worked best.

Blumenthal is a fan of sherry. Working with scientists at Reading University, he has published research that shows it can accentuate the flavours of umami-rich foods such as cheese, meat and fish. He points to manzanilla with sardines and amontillado with pecorino as classic combinations.

But back to the aperitif. For those unfamiliar with this beguiling liquid from Spain's southern city of Jerez, here is a quick guide. Finos are the pale, straw-coloured sherries that smell of almonds. Oloroso has a little more weight and complexity, and the almond flavour gives way to richer, meatier nuts such as walnut. Palo cortado is richer still. You will find good finos in the supermarket from producers such as Croft, Tio Pepe and Harveys. But, for something more interesting, it's worth paying a visit to your local independent wine merchant. Here are three to try.

Classic Dry Fino, Fernando De Castilla, Jerez, 15%, 9

With a zippy, citrus flavour and a super-clean, salty taste, this is incredibly moreish and slips down dangerously easily. Pour a generous measure into a large glass and enjoy in the early evening with some almonds.

Antique Oloroso, Fernando De Castilla, Jerez, 20%, 19

No wonder Tony Singh called his sleek Edinburgh restaurant Oloroso. This is an absolute stunner, with a dry, heavenly, walnut flavour. It's been aged for 20 years, which lends it a mind-boggling complexity. Quite honestly, for the price it is a bargain. Look out for a whiff of lavender.

Palo Cortado, Fernando De Castilla, Jerez, 20%, 24

This is a big step up in quality. Very dry, it has a pleasing round, soft character but with incredible concentration and complexity. This is an aperitif to sip and savour in much the same way as you'd treat a delicate malt whisky.

Stockist: WoodWinters Wines and Whiskies, Bridge of Allan (01786 834894) and Edinburgh (0131 667 2760), www.woodwinters.com