Will Lyons on wine: A cellar's market

Published on Friday 21 August 2009 15:02

IS Majestic the new Oddbins? Off the top of my head I can think of one person who might disagree. Simon Baile, the colourful new owner of Oddbins, has recently revamped its wine list with more than 170 new lines and is probably getting more than a little tired with comparisons to past glories.

But I think they are worthwhile. I have no doubt Baile will provide a serious headache for Majestic in a few years' time, but in the years when Oddbins was languishing under Castel's ownership the team at Majestic picked up the ball and ran with it.

In the late 1990s I was a loyal Oddbins customer, enjoying the quirkiness of its range, the friendliness of its staff and the fact that as a wine merchant it was reliable. One could buy pretty much anything from its cluttered shelves safe in the knowledge that it would taste OK. I also found it comforting that when I moved to London or visited most UK towns and cities there was always an Oddbins one could track down providing a degree of familiarity.

I found myself thinking all those things on a recent visit to Majestic's latest Edinburgh addition, which has opened on Leith Walk, a stone's throw from where Irvine Welsh's Trainspotting was set.There were the friendly staff, a list interesting enough to tempt the experienced as well as the novice buyer and a nice round of frequent offers.

OK, having to buy by the case means you can't just pop in for the odd bottle on the way back from work, but I have always enjoyed splashing out on 12 bottles – one's very own mini cellar. No wonder the warehouse chain has pushed sales to more than 200 million.

With a fine wine section, tasting zone and a smattering of premium wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Italy, it all feels a long, long way from the drinking habits of Renton and co.

Tasting through 50 wines from the list, I was impressed by the number of zippy, quirky, quaffable wines it has. When I say quaffable I mean wines that come in around or under 5 but have genuine character. In short, wines you would happily enjoy on a Friday night after a long week in the office or pull out on a Sunday trying to impress friends. Chteau Mont Milan 2007 13 per cent (5.99) is a case in point. But there are also some very fine wines indeed, including Domaine Jomain's Puligny-Montrachet 2006 (19.99).

A few years ago Majestic's former chief executive Tim How told me that the number of people willing to spend more than 20 a bottle had risen by 30 per cent and that the market was gathering momentum. But Majestic's sales are at the mercy of the recession, much like other wine traders.

The company has now appointed Nick Dagley as its first official fine wine buyer and, with the roll-out of store-within-a-store fine wine shops underway, it obviously sees real potential in this area.

The team in Edinburgh, store manager Lawrence Bowden and India Goring, will shortly be launching Wine Uncorked, a series of instore tastings where thirsty punters can learn anything from grape varieties to wine and food matching. This sounds like a great idea; anything to improve wine education gets a thumbs-up from me. Just remember to spit. As someone who regularly attends tastings of 100 wines or more, I know the temptation to indulge can be overwhelming.

Rueda Blanco 2008, Marqus de Riscal, Valladolid, Spain, 12.5 per cent, 7.49 (down to 5.62 if you buy two in September)

A versatile grape with lots of character and personality, this bursts with fresh, wildflower aromas reminiscent of a summer meadow in full bloom and has a delightful, zippy edge.

Chteau Mont Milan 2007, Corbires, Languedoc Roussillon, France, 13 per cent, 5.99 (buy two for 4.99)

I'm a huge fan of the unrestrained carignan-heavy wines from the clay-limestone terraces of this part of France. This has wonderful scented notes of dried fruits, dates and a whiff of eucalyptus and tree resin. A great match with red meats.

Clos d'Yvigne "Princesse de Clves" 2008, Bergerac Blanc Sec, Bergerac, France, 13.5 per cent, 8.99 (down to 7.99 when you buy two)

Those in the know have been stocking up on Patricia Atkinson's red wines for years but this white is a real discovery. A blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle, it has a spritsy, tangy character with a deep finish.

Stockists: Majestic, 200 Leith Walk, Edinburgh (0131-554 0177, www.majestic.co.uk)

Deals of the week

Nicole D'Aurigny Reserve Brut Champagne Was 23.99, now 11.99. Plus 5 per cent off when you buy six or more bottles of wine at Somerfield (www.somerfield.co.uk)

E & J Gallo Chardonnay Sycamore Canyon Was 8.07, now 4 at Asda (www.asda.com)

Via Alba Red/White 4.48 each or three for 10 (mix and match with Stella Artois, Coca Cola and Diet Coke) at Thresher (www.threshergroup.com)