Weekend pass: Letterfinlay Lodge Hotel

Published on Friday 13 March 2009 14:08

Loch Lochy, Spean Bridge (01397 712622, www.letterfinlaylodgehotel.co.uk)

AS THE recession continues to bite and the once-proud British pound can barely buy an ice cube for a drink in the Balearics, the time seems right for a return to basics. When I was a boy, the only holiday to be had was a trip somewhere in Britain – and usually just as far into Scotland as the family's latest banger would carry us. Luckily, these days that no longer means heading for hotels with lumpy beds and dinner served strictly from 5pm to 5.30pm.

Comfort and hospitality are now demanded, and delivered, at a string of hotels across our beautiful nation. And nowhere is the location more beautiful than the western Highlands, or the welcome likely to be as warm as at Letterfinlay Lodge Hotel, on the brilliantly named Loch Lochy. Even the Yanks should be able to remember than one.

How do I get there?

You can travel by train to Fort William and then by taxi for the remaining few miles. But the easiest method is by road, straight up the A82 from the Central Belt. Carry on through Fort William and keep an eye out on the left for the hotel after you have stopped to take in the bleak grandeur of the Commando monument at Spean Bridge.

What's the food like?

In a word: superb. Or, if you prefer two: unexpectedly superb. Part of the hotel's charm is that it is far from the madding crowd, but that does not also mean a lack of choice, with a full menu on offer all day – offering everything from basics such as steak and scampi to more creative options such as grilled rack of Highland lamb or pan-fried collops of venison. There are daily specials too, and the emphasis is on local ingredients. Chef Paul Draper's work was flawless (the port and rosemary jus that came with the lamb will live long in the memory). The kids' menu is particularly good, and tasty homemade versions of favourite dishes like spaghetti bolognese and haddock and chips were wolfed down by even our fussy eaters.

Bed test

The fresh Highland air would knock you out anyway, but the bedrooms are spacious and comfortable. Family rooms, with big bunks alongside a double, are especially good, with all the usual equipment – phone, multi-channel TV and kettle. Our bathroom was particularly roomy and well equipped, with a huge tub that was perfect for a deep soak or scrubbing mucky kids.

Out and about

If there is snow anywhere in Scotland, the chances are it is in the Nevis Range (01397 705825, www.nevisrange.co.uk), just a few minutes' drive from Letterfinlay. We spent a fabulous day sledging with the wee one, while our nine-year-old had a snowboarding lesson from Ruaraidh MacPherson and Ryan Thompson – which may just have changed his life, and the shape of future family holidays. The gondola ride to the top is fun in itself, and at the top there's a restaurant and pub in which to retreat from the cold. There are summer activities too, and most equipment can be hired.

Fort William is about 20 minutes' drive away and offers a host of pubs, restaurants and shops selling tourist tat.

Little extras

It was the personal touches that made Letterfinlay stand out for us – all provided by co-owner Ian Smith and his attentive staff. These ranged from providing unusual entertainment such as clay-pigeon shooting and Osprey spotting (though happily never at the same time…) and being prepared to smilingly accede to all manner of demands – such as an out-of-hours breakfast so we could hit the slopes early.

The bottom line

The owners have spent a lot of money refurbishing the hotel and packaging it as a small (it has 14 rooms) boutique hotel in the country. One particularly fine feature is the huge deck at the rear, with its magnificent loch views, and future plans include a better car park and new marina. Rooms start from 29.50 a night, but dinner is thoroughly recommended too. Check out the website for special offers.