We all have a Favorita

Published on Friday 26 January 2007 17:32

THE Contini family hardly need much in the way of an introduction when it comes to Italian food in the Capital, such is the popularity of their restaurants and long-standing appeal of the celebrated Valvona & Crolla deli on Elm Row.

La Favorita is a much newer addition to the stable but has already won awards for its pedigree pizzas and built a considerable fan base.

Occupying the same site as the old Caprice pizzeria on Leith Walk, and just down from sister restaurant Vittoria, an extensive makeover has seen even the original log-fired ovens replaced by new ones for cooking up those tasty pizzas.

Chintzy decor in a late 60s/early 70s style with a modern twist presents wooden chairs with dark chocolate backs to match the table tops and contemporary light fixtures which verge on the bright side, yet still manage to create a generally relaxing ambience.

Adding to the good, fun, glamour of the place, too, are large black and white prints of some classy Italian stars from the big screen.

So gazing at the timeless beauty of Sophia Loren, a still of the celebrated comic Toto clowning around with handfuls of spaghetti, or losing yourself in a particularly alluring picture of actress Gina Lollobrigida, star of The World's Most Beautiful Woman, knocking a pizza base into shape can all be enjoyed at your leisure.

Alternatively, a shot of Sean Connery ramming a huge amount of pasta into his Edinburgh-bred gob might raise a smile.

This mix of old and new fits in perfectly with the fare at La Favorita, a huge range of tasty pizzas prepared in the old ovens, complemented by a fine choice of more adventurous pasta dishes - none of the traditional staples like pasta carbonara to be found here.

We started with a dish described as thin pancakes filled with spinach and ricotta cheese. The pancakes were far from thin and somewhat tough, but the fact the filling was so light and tasty and that they were served on a bed of fresh and flavoursome rocket meant any quibble with the deviation from their billing was easily forgotten.

The portion was more than generous and accompanied by a round of garlic bread liberally smothered in mozzarella provided a more than adequate starter for the four of us.

Next up were main courses of genuinely Roman proportions, ie gargantuan. Anyone who has eaten out in Italy's capital will know the denizens of the Eternal City like their food on a similar scale to their architecture.

I went for the garganelli alla pescatrice e asparagi, pasta twists and succulent chunks of monkfish with asparagus, bacon, parmesan and extra virgin olive oil, while Fee opted for the equally impressive bucatini alla norma - long tomato tubes in a rich tomato sauce, olive oil, basil and aubergine with fresh ricotta and smoked ricotta cheese shavings.

Choosing such dishes in an eatery renowned for pizzas can often backfire but these were both perfectly cooked and presented, and really bursting with well-balanced flavours.

Our eldest opted for calzone Amalfitano, folded and filled with mozzarella, tomato, ricotta cheese, spinach, parmesan and lip-smackingly good salami.

It was huge, in fact, almost cartoon-like in proportion, and more than even a rapidly growing, constantly hungry 14-year-old girl could manage - though she came close.

Our youngest celebrated the advent of double digits with a fittingly mature choice, her "small" margherita, part of a cunning and well-practised plan to leave room for dessert.

Still, a period of rest was required before the onslaught of ice creams - chocolate, vanilla and mint chocolate though strangely of Swiss origin rather than local - and more gluttony on my part with the sampling of a tiramasu with a chestnut cream filling.

All were to the same standard as the previous courses, just as nice but much more naughty, and scored a resounding ten out of ten with the just turned ten-year-old.

This considerable whole was washed down with cabernet sauvigon, bottled water, several bottles of Pago and finally, some two hours in, rounded off with espresso in a vain attempt to avoid sleepiness setting in.

Italians, of course, know what they're about when it comes to family dining and Sunday afternoons feature a clown to do tricks, turn balloons into animals and presumably bored kids into attentive young angels.

If this sounds abhorrent when trying to enjoy a relaxed meal out, then rest assured the layout of La Favorita lends itself to versatility and there are plenty of alcoves and annexes to hide away in.

The clown also asks the "older youngsters" if they would rather be left alone. And of course, being a whole decade old now, the birthday girl declined such childish entertainment. It didn't stop her accepting one of his colourful creations on the way out, though.

With impressive food, a busy but relaxing atmosphere and first-class waiting staff, La Favorita has plenty to shout about.

For a lively dining experience with family or friends, as a place to sit and enjoy some tasty morsels and watch Leith Walk pass by, or even gaze at the world's most beautiful woman making dough, it's well worth the visit.

• La Favorita, 325-331 Leith Walk, 0131-554 2430 www.la-favorita.com