Walk on the wild side: A railway walk down Glen Ogle

Published on Tuesday 13 January 2009 15:42

THOUGH scarcely needed, Ordnance Survey map 51, Loch Tay, covers the area. My 1999 edition does not show the new cycleway (a more current edition is required), but the route, where it leaves the old line, is well-signposted.

From the Glenoglehead car park, the large one on the east side of the A85, head south on the cycleway, then carefully cross the road to join the old railway line. At first stroll by the almost hidden Lochan Lairig Cheile, then wonder at the cuttings and viaducts required to obtain the requisite gradient; gentle for walkers but at the top end for trains. John McGregor, railway historian and author, kindly sent me an extract of the 1881 Working Timetable.

Instructions on the incline to Lochearnhead were quite precise: "Guards must put on their brakes, but not so hard as to skid the wheels or fire the blocks, and keep them on until the bottom of the incline is reached. Immediately after the guards have applied the brakes, the engine driver will apply what additional power is necessary and control the train with the brake power at his command. Engine drivers passing round 10 or 12 chain curves (ie tight curves] where there are check-rails must not exceed a speed of 12 miles an hour."

With several inches of snow hiding the Tarmac surface, our pedestrian speed was less than 4mph, but we enjoyed superb winter weather ... blue skies, no breeze and the most gigantic icicles I have seen for many a year in passing by one of the cuttings. With steep rock-strewn slopes to the west and open views to the east, it was a magical stroll downhill.

A decision point is reached where the cycleway leaves the Glen Ogle line to descend in steep zigzags to join the old Lochearnhead line. Knowing that our routes would later converge, Jimbo and Joe kindly opted to stay with the marked route, leaving me to explore the Glen Ogle line. The lower signposted route is straightforward. After descent, walk to a new metal arched bridge spanning the Kendrum Burn then continue towards the A84. However, the cycleway stays on the west side of the road to join the Glen Ogle line at map ref 576214.

I followed the Glen Ogle line with little hope of success for the way was overgrown and further on there was an ominous gap on the railway line, at least as mapped. However, the overgrown area soon cleared, giving an easy walk and there proved to be no gap in the line. The only ill-drained area, through a cutting, was easily traversed.

Sipping hot soup and enjoying the tranquillity, I waited briefly for the others. The Glen Ogle line crossed the road at this point, but again the cycleway stays on the west side to reach the A84/Balquhidder junction, where we had preplaced one car. Afterwards, we retired to the Clachan Cottage Hotel; recommended for their home-made scones and welcoming wood-burning stove.

Factfile

Map Ordnance Survey map 51, Loch Tay & Glen Dochart

Distance 6 miles

Height Negligible

Terrain Well-surfaced old railway line and cycleway

Start point Parking area, east side of A85, Glenoglehead

Time 2 to 3 hours

Nearest village Lochearnhead

Nearest refreshment spot Clachan Cottage Hotel, Lochearnhead