Walk of the week: Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Published on Monday 15 November 2010 11:01

Rhona and I had an early morning start to climb Beinn Fhionnlaidh, Finlay's Hill, the central peak in the rocky region between Glen Etive and Glen Creran.

With the temperature nearing -4C, and alert to the possibility of oncoming traffic, it was a slow and careful drive down the single-track Glen Etive road. And at the end of our day we were ecstatic. We had enjoyed clear blue skies, warmth in the sun despite the sub-zero temperature, superb visibility but a modest breeze; our pleasure enhanced by the recent stormy weather and the deep depression and severe gales forecast for the rest of the week.

THE ROUTE

Use the parking area, map ref 144485, on the north side of the road just before the bridge over the Allt Charnan, from where it is a short distance to Invercharnan. After passing by some buildings, the start of a forestry track is revealed. This secluded track through Glenetive Forest, steadily rising south-west then north-west on the north side of the Allt nan Gaoirean, has a gentle gradient throughout, some 200m over two miles. It is a lovely and pleasant walk on the tree-lined track, slightly overgrown in places with many a spreading rhododendron, and higher up we had the snow-capped Sgor na h-Ulaidh as the backcloth.

The recent heavy snow dump had been mostly confined to the Cairngorms and the Etive hills had snow cover from only some 2,500ft.

Almost at the end of the forest, where the track turns sharp right at map ref 122488, go straight ahead on what is shown on the map as a path but is actually a worn vehicle track. Once clear of the forest, the previously hidden Beinn Fhionnlaidh is revealed for the first time.

Now into open country, go west with a slight descent over often wet ground to the Allt nan Gaoirean. Two short rickety bridges of dubious safety consist of three logs with a partial top cover of rusty corrugated iron. Even if the burn is fast flowing, most walkers will prefer to splash over on the boulder bed of the stream.

And this is where the walk ends for ahead lie the rocky slopes of Beinn Fhionnlaidh. If the late November day weather is adverse, and even if you are an experienced winter hillwalker, this may be a sensible turning point. This gives a two to three hour outing so there is still time to drive to the road-end by Loch Etive just to see what's doing.

On our gorgeous day, of course we continued onto the open hillside; north-west to the 595m dip on the north side of Meall nan Gobhar, then a steeper climb to the craggy snow-covered ridge, west of a 841m top.

The ridge narrows and becomes craggier, with a couple of slight scrambly points, then the 959m/3,146ft trig point is reached. We met only one other person, a brief encounter with a hill-runner. We had excellent views all round.Indeed, in looking out west to Mull and a glowering distant line of cloud, we needed no forecast to tell us that there was a front coming.

There was the sound of much activity coming from the head of Loch Etive, but we knew what it was. Jimbo had been there recently and had seen timber felling under way - and a new floating pier. With the single-track Etive road not suitable for transporting timber by lorry, the pier will enable the extraction by sea of over 100,000 tonnes of timber over a four and a half year period.

Once back at the car, we saw an articulated timber lorry apparently stuck by the Allt Charnan bridge. The lorry rear-end was being nudged by a tractor, then, after some 20 minutes of manoeuvring the driver got the lorry over the bridge. We headed up the glen before the lorry - just in case, but it did not get stuck again.

THE FACTS

Map Ordnance Survey map 50, Glen Orchy & Loch Etive

Distance 5 miles

Height 200m

Terrain Forestry track

Start point Parking area, map ref 144485, north side of Allt Charnan bridge

Time 2-3 hours

Nearest village Glencoe or Bridge of Orchy

Nearest refreshment spot Kings House Hotel, Rannoch Moor